Snow Cake

A white butter cake in the old style, leavened by baking powder and seven stiffly beaten egg whites, with cornstarch replacing part of the flour to soften the crumb. The original gives no oven temperature and no pan, so both need supplying.

• Fold, do not stir, the whitesThe recipe says "add whites of 7 eggs" but the whole character of the cake depends on keeping the air in them. Fold in a third to loosen the heavy batter, then fold the rest in two additions until barely combined.
• Oven temperatureA cake of this size and richness belongs in a moderate oven, 350F. The stated hour is right for a deep tube or angel-food pan; in two 9-inch layers it will be done in 25 to 30 minutes.
• Pan and yieldThe batter runs to roughly 6 to 7 cups. A 10-inch tube pan, buttered and floured, will take it and gives 12 to 16 slices; the original names no pan.
• Butter measureThree-quarters of a cupful is 1 1/2 sticks, 6 oz or 170 g. Have it soft enough to cream properly with the sugar, which should take a good 4 to 5 minutes with a mixer.
• CornstarchOne cup of cornstarch to two of flour is a large proportion and it is deliberate: cornstarch dilutes the gluten and gives the fine, pale, tender crumb the name refers to. Sift or whisk it thoroughly with the flour and baking powder or it will streak.
• EggsSeven whites from modern large eggs come to about 7 fl oz, a scant cup. Reserve the yolks for custard or curd; nothing in this cake uses them.
• Testing for donenessCheck at 45 minutes. A skewer in the thickest part should come out clean and the cake should have begun to pull from the sides of the pan.
• FinishingThe original says nothing about icing. A plain white boiled icing suits a cake of this type, but it is sweet enough to serve plain, and does well with fruit.