Veloute with Claret

This is a variation entry: it assumes you already have the book's velouté at hand and tells you only what to change. Two substitutions, one of which needs care.

• What velouté isA blond roux — equal weights butter and flour cooked to pale straw, no browning — moistened with a light stock and simmered until it loses any raw-flour taste. The book's own velouté recipe, referred to here, supplies the stock and the quantities; this entry changes only the liquid enrichment.
• The hinge: yolks must not boilOnce the yolks go in, the sauce cannot return to a simmer or it will scramble into threads. Pull the pan off the heat, whisk a ladle of the hot sauce into the beaten yolks to temper them, return the mixture to the pan and hold it below about 180F, stirring, until it thickens.
• ClaretIn this period claret means a dry red table wine in the Bordeaux style, whether imported or domestic. Any dry, moderately tannic red works; avoid oak-heavy or sweet bottles, which turn bitter or cloying when reduced.
• Reduce the wine firstThe recipe says only to substitute claret for the cream. Straight substitution will give a thinner, sharper sauce than the cream version; if that is not wanted, simmer the claret alone until reduced by about half before whisking it in, then correct the salt.
• ColourRed wine and a blond roux produce a dull mauve-brown, not an appetising red. A small knob of cold butter whisked in at the end will at least give it gloss.