Fruit Recipes

Nine hundred ways with fruit, 1907 — apple to pomegranate, each fruit given its history, its food value and its recipes.

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Baked Preserved Pears

Any small, hard pears may be baked for preserving with the best results. Place in layers in a crock with some lemon peel; cover with water and molasses, half and half; set on the back of the stove all night and bake all next day in a slow oven. Longer cooking will not impair but improve if done slowly enough. The fruit will become dark red in colour. Cook down the syrup; pour over the pears when done and the fruit has been placed in heated jars.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is an open-kettle preserve: hot fruit and syrup packed into heated jars with no processing step, no acidification, and no measured quantities. That method is no longer considered safe, and the points below explain why this particular recipe fails rather than how to rescue it.

A Little History

Hard cooking pears — the old warden and other keeping varieties — were valued for their keeping quality and their suitability for cooking, and they survived months of slow treatment. Their high tannin and low sugar content rewards exactly the technique described here: hours at low heat, during which the flesh darkens to the deep red or mahogany colour the writer promises, a change generally attributed to the slow reaction of the fruit's phenolic compounds under prolonged gentle cooking. The overnight rest "on the back of the stove" belongs to the coal or wood range, where the firebox end stayed hot and the far end held a steady low warmth all night for little or no extra fuel; that residual heat appears to have shaped a fair amount of nineteenth-century preserving. Molasses rather than refined sugar points to the same economy, and to an American kitchen where molasses was the cheaper sweetener. The casual final instruction — pour over, jar, done — reflects the open-kettle practice that was common in home preserving before boiling-water processing became standard advice in the early twentieth century.

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