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White Stock, Game Stock, Second Stock, and Fish
Stock. Brown Stock is made from shoulder and shin of beef.
White Stock from white meat, veal, calves' feet, fowls, and rabbits.
Game Stock from game of all kinds except wild duck and that class of birds. The breast should be removed and used for entrées, but the rest of the meat and the carcase must be cut up; add a little raw ham or lean bacon, a bouquet garni, and a few peppercorns. If the stock is made only of game and no other meat or bones are used, other stock (second stock) must be added instead of water, but if you have meat as well as game, then use water, but not quite as much water as for brown or white stock.
For Fish Stock use such fish as whiting and cods' heads, conger eels, haddock; not salmon, mackerel, or herrings. This soup is very delicate and nutritious, and therefore suitable for invalids. Take 2 lbs. of fish-bones, 2 quarts of water, an onion,. a carrot, 2 cloves, a small blade of mace, peppercorns, a bouquet garni, and salt. Let it boil up, skim it well, then add the vegetables, and let it simmer slowly until reduced to half its original quantity.
This stock is not clarified, only strained, and is used for fish sauce and fish soups.
Second Stock is made by adding the same quantity of fresh water and fresh vegetables to the meat and bones from which the first stock has been made, adding any remains of meat and bones that you have. Let it simmer for four or five hours, skimming it well. Second stock is used for purées, sauces, and gravies, and for making glaze.
Glaze is stock or second stock boiled down.
This stock must be a jelly or it will not make glaze. Remove the fat and put the stock into a saucepan; as soon as it boils put in one pint of water to a quart of stock to clarify it. It must be carefully watched and skimmed until it will drop as jelly from the spoon; then pour it out at once, or it will burn. Put the glaze into skins or into jars, and when it is cold, cover it over with clarified butter or lard.
Bouillon is unclarified Beef Stock, as Pot-au-feu.
Consommé is the first stock clarified with lean meat, whites of eggs, and vegetables.
To clarify stock use½ lb. of gravy beef to 2 -quarts, and the white and shell of one egg.
It is necessary to deal thus fully with stock, as it is the basis of nearly every soup, sauce, and essence, and the foundation of all meat cookery.
The principal or mother sauces are :- Espagnole, the foundation of nearly all brown sauces.
Suprème, or Velouté, the foundation of all the best white sauces.
Allemande, the foundation of many white fish sauces; and all these require either brown or white stock.
Béchamel is a cheaper white sauce than Suprème Sauce, and is made without stock.
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