Hot Weather Dishes

Philadelphia, 1888: what to eat when it is too hot to cook, from the cooking-school teacher who taught the city.

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Cream Chocolate Pudding

1 pint of milk 1/2 cup of sugar 4 eggs 4 tablespoonfuls of corn starch 2 ounces of chocolate 1 teaspoonful of vanilla Put the chocolate in a saucepan, and stand it over the teakettle to melt; stir until perfectly smooth. Put the milk on to boil in a farina boiler; moisten the corn starch with a little cold water (about a quarter-cup), and add it to the boiling milk; cook and stir until thick and smooth. Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth; add the sugar to the milk, then the whites, and beat all well together over the fire. Take from the fire, add the vanilla. Now take out one-third of the mixture, add to it the chocolate; mix well. Dip a plain pudding mould into cold water, put in the bottom of it half the white mixture, then all the dark, and then the remainder of the white. Stand on the ice for three hours to harden. Serve with Vanilla Sauce poured around it.

CREAM CORN STARCH PUDDING (VANILLA) 1 pint of milk 1/2 cup of sugar 1 teaspoonful of vanilla 4 even tablespoonfuls of corn starch 4 eggs (86) Make the same as Chocolate Pudding, omitting the chocolate, and adding the vanilla to the whole pudding.

For the Modern Kitchen

A moulded cornstarch blancmange in two colours, set with ice rather than gelatine. The starch and the beaten whites do all the work, so the proportions matter more than the technique.

A Little History

Hot Weather Dishes is generally attributed to Sarah Tyson Rorer, principal of the Philadelphia Cooking School and one of the most widely read American cookery writers of the late nineteenth century; the book collects dishes meant to be made with as little standing over the stove as possible. Cornstarch puddings belong squarely to that project. Commercial cornstarch, sold from the 1840s onward as a cheap thickener, gave households a way to make the older gelatine and isinglass blancmanges without a stock-pot or a long boiling, and the results set firm on ice in a few hours. The two-tone moulding here — white, dark, white — is a small piece of Victorian table showmanship, the same impulse that produced striped jellies and marbled creams, achieved by nothing more than dividing one batch and stirring melted chocolate into part of it. The instruction to "stand on the ice" places the recipe in the long era of icebox refrigeration, which spans several decades.

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