Hot Weather Dishes

Philadelphia, 1888: what to eat when it is too hot to cook, from the cooking-school teacher who taught the city.

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Dried Beef Frizzled

Chip dried beef very thin. To every half-pound allow a large tablespoonful of butter, a half pint of milk and one tablespoonful of flour. Melt the butter in a frying pan, then add the meat, and stir over the fire for about two minutes, or until the butter begins to brown; dredge in the flour, stir again, then add the milk and a little pepper, stir again until it boils, and serve immediately.

BEEF Dutch Style Prepare six pounds of tender round the same as for Collared Beef, at the end of the week, rub well into it the following mixture:

1 teaspoonful of pepper 1 tablespoonful of coriander seed 1 teaspoonful of gumbo fillet powder Bind the meat into a good shape, tie with tape, and wrap and sew in a piece of cheese cloth. Put it into a large kettle, cover with boiling water, boil one moment, and then stand where it cannot possibly boil for three hours. At the end of the second hour add as flavoring, one onion, two bay leaves, one teaspoonful of celery seed and one tablespoonful of juniper berries. Finish precisely the same as Collared Beef.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

Two recipes share this page. The frizzled dried beef is straightforward and still works; the Dutch-style beef that follows depends on a week-long cure printed elsewhere in the book, and that portion should not be attempted from what is given here.

A Little History

Dried beef was one of the standard hot-weather proteins of the American household: shelf-stable, requiring no ice, and cooked in the two minutes it takes to brown butter. "Frizzle" is an old kitchen verb for frying something thin until the edges curl and hiss, and by the late nineteenth century frizzled dried beef in cream sauce on toast was a fixture of American breakfast and supper tables — the dish that would later acquire its unprintable army nickname. The Dutch-style beef beneath it belongs to a different tradition entirely, the spiced and pressed cold cured beef of Northern Europe, seasoned here with coriander, juniper and bay; the presence of gumbo filé in that spice rub is a distinctly American intrusion into an otherwise Continental formula.

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