Hot Weather Dishes

Philadelphia, 1888: what to eat when it is too hot to cook, from the cooking-school teacher who taught the city.

HomeMeats › Dried Beef Relish

Dried Beef Relish

This is a way to use up the hard. small ends of dried beef, that you cannot cut.

Grate the meat, and to every cupful allow four tablespoonfuls of cream, four eggs well beaten, and a little pepper. Put the meat and cream into a stewing pan ; when hot, add the eggs; stir until the mixture becomes thick. Serve immediately on squares of buttered toast.

For the Modern Kitchen

A thrift dish that turns the unsliceable heel of a dried beef into something closer to a savory scramble. The whole thing lives or dies on heat control.

A Little History

Hot Weather Dishes belongs to a genre of small summer cookery books aimed at households cooking on coal or wood ranges, where the point was to get supper on the table without heating the kitchen for an hour; the collection is generally attributed to Sarah Tyson Rorer of the Philadelphia Cooking School, whose writing has exactly this brisk, economical register. Dried beef was a staple of the American pantry long before reliable home refrigeration, sold as a salted, smoked, air-dried round that kept well and was shaved thin at the counter or at home. The hard end of such a piece was a familiar household nuisance, and creamed or egg-bound chipped beef on toast seems to have been a common use for it, an ancestor of the creamed chipped beef that later became army mess food. The dish also shows the period's habit of stretching a small quantity of expensive cured meat with eggs and cream, and of treating toast as the default vehicle for anything soft and savory.

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