Hot Weather Dishes

Philadelphia, 1888: what to eat when it is too hot to cook, from the cooking-school teacher who taught the city.

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Strawberry Bavarian Cream

1 quart of strawberries 1 cup of sugar 1½ box of gelatine 1 pint of cream 1/2 cup of cold water Cover the gelatine with the water, and soak a half hour. Mash the berries and press them through a sieve fine enough to remove the seeds; add the sugar, and stir until dissolved. Stand the gelatine over boiling water and, when melted, strain it into the strawberry juice; mix, turn into a tin basin, and finish the same as Raspberry Bavarian Cream.

For the Modern Kitchen

A fruit bavarois with no custard base: strawberry purée set with gelatine and lightened with whipped cream. The original leans on the raspberry version a few pages earlier, so the method has to be reconstructed.

A Little History

Bavarian cream is the English name for the French crème bavaroise, a nineteenth-century dessert usually built on an egg custard set with isinglass or gelatine and lightened with whipped cream; the connection to Bavaria itself is traditional rather than documented, often attributed to French chefs who had worked for Bavarian households. What is notable here is the omission: no eggs, no cooked custard, just fruit purée, gelatine and cream. It also depended on commercial ice, which by the later nineteenth century was delivered to city households cheaply enough that a home cook could count on packing a mold. Granulated gelatine sold in boxes, rather than calf's-foot jelly boiled down at home, is the other quiet modernity in the recipe; it turned a two-day project into an afternoon one.

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