Housekeeping in Old Virginia

Seventeen hundred recipes from the housewives of Old Virginia — Sally Lunn and beaten biscuit, brandy peaches and Brunswick stew — gathered in 1879 by Patrick Henry's granddaughter, with tributes from the First Lady down.

HomeCookery › Ginger Snaps (Cupful butter tablespoonful)

Ginger Snaps (Cupful butter tablespoonful)

1 cupful butter. 1 tablespoonful ginger. 1 teaspoonful soda, in 1 pint boiling molasses.

Stir and let it cool; add sifted flour enough to make a dough; roll thin and bake.--Mrs. S. B.

For the Modern Kitchen

A terse nineteenth-century formula that assumes the cook knows what a stiff molasses dough should feel like. The flour is left to your judgment, so work in stages and stop while the dough is still just barely manageable.

A Little History

Ginger snaps belong to the long family of molasses-and-spice biscuits that dominated American home baking before cheap white sugar; molasses was the standard sweetener in Southern pantries well into the nineteenth century, and ginger was among the few spices reliably stocked in quantity. The soda-into-molasses trick is sometimes read as a rough marker of date — pearlash and then saleratus gave way to bicarbonate of soda over the middle decades of the century — though molasses-and-soda recipes remained common long after the 1870s, so recipes like this one, which lean on the acidity of molasses rather than added cream of tartar or sour milk, can only loosely be placed in that transition. Housekeeping in Old Virginia (1879) was compiled by Marion Cabell Tyree from contributions by named and initialed Virginia housekeepers. One can only guess why the instructions are so compressed: perhaps "Mrs. S. B." was writing down her own shorthand for other experienced cooks rather than for beginners, with the unmeasured flour a possible sign of it.

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