How to Cook Vegetables

The seed grower's cookbook, 1890 — every vegetable Burpee sold, and how Mrs. Rorer would have you cook it.

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Boiled Onions (1 dozen onions 1 tablespoonful)

1 dozen onions, 1 tablespoonful of flour, 1/2 pint of milk, 1 tablespoonful of butter, Salt and pepper to taste.

Remove the skins from the onions and throw them into cold water. If they are very strong, keep them under the water while you remove the skins. Put them into a large saucepan of boiling water, add a teaspoonful of salt, and boil until you can pierce them easily with a fork, about forty minutes. They must be cooked thoroughly but not soft. Then drain them and return to the kettle. Dust them with flour, add the butter, then the milk. Shake them until boiling hot, season and serve. Serve with roasted chicken or turkey.

For the Modern Kitchen

A plain creamed onion, the standard American accompaniment to roast poultry. Nothing here is difficult, but the quantities assume a smaller onion than most supermarkets sell.

A Little History

Creamed onions belong to the fixed repertoire of the American roast-poultry dinner, and the closing line — serve with roasted chicken or turkey — places this squarely in that tradition rather than presenting it as a dish in its own right. Small white boiling onions were a market staple in the late nineteenth century, used for this kind of dish along with pickling. The method is the simplest possible white sauce: flour dusted straight onto the hot vegetable, butter and milk added in the pan, no separate saucepan and no roux. Cookbooks of the period call this dredging, and it turns up over and over for vegetables and stewed meats. The dish survives largely because of Thanksgiving, where creamed onions still appear on tables that have otherwise dropped most of the vegetable cookery of this era.

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