Bake
Prepare as for Broiled Chops with Soubise sauce; dip in buttered crumbs: wrap in buttered paper cases. thirty minutes in hot oven. Serve with tomato or olive sauce.
Lamb or Mutton Chops Wipe chops, shape, place on broiler, and cook over a clear fire, turning every ten seconds, allowing eight minutes for chops cut one inch thick. Serve on hot platter. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and spread with butter.
Arrange chops in circle, overlapping each other, or around a mound of vegetables.
Two recipes have run together here: a baked chop in a paper case, and the plain broiled lamb or mutton chop it depends on. Read the first sentence as "cook the chops as for broiling, then wrap and bake."
- Hot ovenPeriod guidance puts a "hot" oven somewhere in the 400-450F range. Thirty minutes at that heat is a long time for a chop that has already been broiled, so check the meat rather than the clock.
- Paper casesThese are en papillote wrappers - parchment cut in a heart or oval, buttered, folded over the chop and crimped shut. Parchment works as written; foil will steam rather than crisp.
- Soubise sauceAn onion purée bound with béchamel or velouté, sieved smooth. Here it is used as a coating that holds the crumbs, so make it thick enough to stay on the meat.
- Buttered crumbsDry white breadcrumbs tossed with melted butter, not raw crumbs. Inside a sealed paper case they will brown only lightly.
- A clear fireCoals burned down past the flame, so there is heat without smoke or flare-up. A very hot gas grill or a heavy ridged pan gives the same effect indoors.
- Turning every ten secondsNot fussiness — constant turning on a hinged wire broiler keeps the fat from catching and cooks a thick chop evenly. Eight minutes for a one-inch chop lands around medium; for pink lamb, pull it at 130-135F internal.
- MuttonMeat from a sheep over about two years old, strongly flavoured and rarely sold in the United States now. Lamb chops of the same thickness cook faster and taste milder; hogget or older lamb is the nearest common substitute.
- YieldNeither version states a number. Reckon two rib or loin chops per person, or one thick double chop.
Lowney's Cook Book was compiled by Maria Willett Howard and issued by the Walter M. Lowney Company, the Boston chocolate manufacturer — a promotional book that ran well beyond chocolate into general household cookery, which is why a plain broiled chop sits alongside candy formulas. The baked version is a small piece of restaurant French in a household book: en papillote cooking, and a soubise sauce traditionally credited to the household of the eighteenth-century Prince de Soubise. The pairing of lamb and mutton in one heading is itself dated evidence — mutton was still ordinary market meat in 1907.