Lowney's Cook Book

The chocolate house's complete cookbook, c.1907 — from the value of food to the body through chafing-dish delicacies.

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Gluten Bread

1 egg yeast cake 1/4 cup warm water 3 cups gluten Mix water, milk, salt and butter. When lukewarm, add dissolved yeast cake, egg well beaten, and gluten. Let rise, when spongy beat well, add enough more gluten to shape. Knead, let rise, shape in loaves, let rise, and bake one hour.

For the Modern Kitchen

The ingredient line has been mangled in printing — milk, salt and butter appear in the method but never in the list, and the yeast and water quantities have lost their numbers. Treat this as a skeleton to be read alongside a standard white loaf rather than a complete formula.

A Little History

Gluten bread belongs to the era before insulin, when treatment for diabetes centered on severe restriction of starch, alongside fasting and other restrictive regimens. From the 1880s onward, mills and pharmacies in Europe and America sold "gluten flour" — wheat flour with much of its starch washed away. The flours were notoriously variable in quality, and physicians of the period complained that some commercial gluten flours contained nearly as much starch as ordinary bread flour. Lowney's book, published by the Massachusetts chocolate firm and compiled by Maria Willett Howard, was a general-purpose household manual, and the inclusion of this loaf shows how routine such diabetic baking had become in a middle-class kitchen by 1907. Insulin's introduction in the early 1920s made the strict starch-free regimen obsolete, and recipes like this one gradually dropped out of the general cookbooks.

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