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Jelly Sandwiches
Spread buttered bread with jelly and sprinkle jelly with chopped nuts. Cover with buttered bread, and shape.
A four-line formula from the sandwich pages, written for cooks who already knew what a tea sandwich should look like. Nearly all of the work is in the two words at the end.
- "Shape" is the whole instructionIn period sandwich chapters this generally meant trimming the crusts and cutting the sandwich into rounds, triangles, diamonds or fancy cutter shapes for a tea or luncheon plate, though the recipe itself does not say so. Cut with a sharp thin knife or a biscuit cutter after assembly, pressing straight down rather than sawing.
- Butter both slices, and do it properlyThe butter is a moisture barrier as much as a flavour, keeping the jelly from soaking the crumb. It must be soft enough to spread in a thin even film to the very edges; creamed butter, not melted.
- Jelly, not jamJelly in period usage normally meant a clear strained fruit jelly stiff enough to hold a cut edge; currant, crabapple, quince or grape would all suit. Jam or preserves are likelier to bleed at the edges and slide when the sandwich is cut.
- The breadUse a fine-grained white sandwich loaf a day old, sliced thin. Fresh bread tears under a thin spread of butter, and an open crumb lets the jelly through.
- NutsWalnuts, pecans or blanched almonds, chopped fine rather than coarse so the top slice sits flat. Toasting them first is not in the original but improves a sandwich that is otherwise all sugar and butter.
- Yield and timingThe recipe gives no quantities. As a rough working estimate a standard loaf, thinly sliced, will make something like a dozen sandwiches, or two to three dozen shapes once trimmed. Assemble no more than an hour or two ahead and keep them under a damp cloth; they go stale at the cut edges quickly.
Lowney's Cook Book (1907) was published by the Walter M. Lowney Company of Boston, a chocolate manufacturer, and like most house cookbooks of the period it ranges well beyond the product it was selling. Sandwiches of this kind belong to the fashion for the afternoon tea table and the ladies' luncheon: they were plate food, cut small, served alongside a salad course or with tea rather than eaten as a meal. The thin buttered bread, the trimmed crust and the cutter-shaped round were the marks of a properly turned-out tea sandwich, with jelly and nuts among the cheapest of the fillings.