Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

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Brown Betty

3 cups chopped apples 2 cups bread crumbs 1/2 cup sugar 1/4 teaspoon cinnamon 1/4 teaspoon nutmeg Juice and rind 1/2 lemon 1/4 cup water 2 tablespoons butter Mix the sugar with the spices. Arrange one-half of the crumbs in the bottom of the pan. Place one-half the apples, one-half the sugar and one-half the lemon juice, also one-half the melted butter, over them, then one-fourth of the bread crumbs and the remainder of the apples, the sugar, the lemon and the melted butter. Over all this pour the water. If apples are very juicy, omit all or part of the water. Cover with the remaining fourth of the bread crumbs. Put in a moderate oven, cover, and bake until the apples begin to get tender; then remove the cover.

For the Modern Kitchen

A layered apple pudding that depends entirely on the crumbs staying distinct from the fruit. The original assumes a covered baking dish and dry, stale bread.

A Little History

Brown Betty is a named American dessert of the crumb-and-fruit family, appearing in print by 1864 and thoroughly domestic by the time this book was written; the origin of the name has never been documented, and the various stories about a particular Betty are traditional rather than evidenced. Its logic is thrift: stale bread, windfall apples, a little sugar and butter, and no pastry to make. That is also why it sits comfortably in a meatless cookery book — the wave of vegetarian and "meatless day" cookbooks in the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries drew heavily on existing frugal household cooking, and fruit desserts built on bread rather than suet or lard needed no adaptation at all.

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