Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

HomeVegetable Gelatine › Jellied Apricots

Jellied Apricots

1 quart can apricots 3/4 cup sugar 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 1/2 cups water 1/3 box--1/4 ounce--vegetable gelatine Soak the vegetable gelatine in warm water for twenty minutes or more. Drain, and cook in cup of boiling water. Cook the sugar and the remainder of the water, letting it boil two minutes, then add to the apricots. Strain the cooked vegetable gelatine, and add to the fruit. Turn into molds wet with cold water, and let stand until ready to serve. Unmold, and serve with whipped cream.

For the Modern Kitchen

A straightforward agar jelly from the era when vegetarian cooks needed a setting agent that did not come from calves' bones. The one thing to get right is the agar: it must actually boil, and it sets at room temperature, which changes how you handle it.

A Little History

Vegetarian and "meatless" cookbooks of the early twentieth century had a practical problem with desserts: ordinary gelatine is rendered from animal bones, hides and connective tissue, which put every jellied dish off the table. Agar-agar, extracted from red algae and long used in Japan as kanten, solved it, and by the 1900s it was reaching American cooks under the descriptive name "vegetable gelatine", which is why the recipe measures by the fraction of a box before giving the honest weight. Agar was already familiar in laboratories as a culture medium for bacteria, a use generally traced to the 1880s. Canned apricots here signal the same period: fruit put up in tin was cheap, reliable and available in winter, and a molded fruit jelly with whipped cream made a company dessert for a household that did without meat.

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