Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

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Mince Pie

Mince-meat Paste Prepare the paste according to recipe for paste, and use the mince-meat prepared according to either recipe for mincemeat.

For the Modern Kitchen

This is an assembly note rather than a full method: the book expects you to turn back to its pastry and mincemeat entries and simply put the two together. What follows fills in the steps that a 1910s cook would have taken for granted.

A Little History

Mincemeat began as exactly what its name says, minced meat, preserved with dried fruit, sugar, spirits and spice, and the beef and suet lingered in British and American recipes long after the mixture had become a dessert. Meatless versions are generally traced to the same nineteenth-century drift toward sweetness. The bare cross-reference here is also characteristic of the genre, which built pies out of numbered component recipes for paste and filling on the assumption that a cook already knew how to line a plate, fill it and cut a vent.

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