Meatless Cookery

Published as America rationed meat for the war, this is a whole cuisine built without it — nut roasts and cheese soufflés, dasheen and okra soups, vegetable gelatine, and a chapter on what to do with the whites of eggs.

HomeSalads › Philadelphia Salad

Philadelphia Salad

Peel and dice one grapefruit, cut in halves and seed a cup of grapes, dice one orange, shred a pineapple, and mix with half a cup of English walnuts and cream nuts. Place all in a bowl, and pour over French dressing. Garnish with endive.

For the Modern Kitchen

A fruit salad of the sort that filled the salad chapter of American cookbooks a century ago, dressed not with a sweet cream dressing but with a plain oil-and-vinegar French dressing. Two ingredient names need translating before you shop.

A Little History

Salads like this belong to the era when American cookbooks were dividing salads into "vegetable" and "fruit," and when a fruit salad was still a slightly modish thing to put on a table — the ingredients depended on a railway and refrigeration network that could put Florida grapefruit and Hawaiian pineapple in a Northern bowl in winter. City names attached to salads were often marketing, borrowing prestige as much as recording an origin — though the Waldorf is a real exception, traceable to the Waldorf hotel and associated with Oscar Tschirky in the 1890s — and the same title can cover quite different combinations from book to book. Nut meats, meanwhile, do the work that meat would otherwise do, being rich, oily and filling enough to carry a course on their own.

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