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Entrées: Served
Hâtelettes de ris de veau are larded slices of sweetbread, roasted and served on little skewers. Côtelettes de ris de veau are slices of sweetbread, breadcrumbed and fried; served with plain gravy or with a white sauce. Served with Indian sauce, they are à l'Indienne.
Côtelettes de ris de veau au suprême are sauté slices served with suprême sauce; aux champignons, with mushroom sauce. Au Montpellier, the slices are set in aspic and served with asparagus points and Mayonnaise sauce.
ENTRÉES.
Blanquette de ris de veau aux truffes are round slices cooked with slices of truffles in white sauce with cream and yolks of eggs. with fried croûtons of bread.
Garnished Petites croustades de ris de veau are little cases of pastry filled with sweetbread cut in dice, and white sauce with chopped truffles or mushrooms.
Petites caisses à la St. Clair are little pastry cases filled with sweetbread in white sauce, garnished with little balls of cucumber.
Petites caisses à la Whitstable are filled with sweetbread and oysters, and are garnished with chopped truffles.
Vol-au-vent à la Toulouse is a vol-au-vent filled with a Toulouse garnish, or with a preparation of sweetbread and mushrooms in white sauce.
MUTTON.
Côtelettes de mouton sauce tomates are grilled, and served with tomato sauce. à la jardinière are served with stewed vegetables; à la Milanaise, with macaroni. à la Soubise are stewed with stock, etc., and served with the sauce round, and thick Soubise sauce in the centre. à la Provençale are covered with an onion sauce, breadcrumbed, with grated Parmesan mixed with the crumbs, and browned; served with fried potatoes. Served with Soubise sauce, they are à la Marseillaise.
Côtelettes de mouton à la Vicomtesse are coated with a sauce of ham, mushrooms, yolks of eggs, stock, etc., breadcrumbed and fried; served with paper frills round the bones. à la Bohémienne-soaked in marinade, breadcrumbed and broiled; served with a sauce of some of the marinade with tomato and brown sauce, currant jelly, etc. en robe de chambre-covered with forcemeat of veal, breadcrumbed and browned; served with gravy. à la financière-braised, and served with Financière garnish. braisées aux navets-larded, braised, and dipped in aspic with Poivrade sauce; served cold with dressed turnips and broken aspic. à la Viennoise-larded and braised; served in a brown sauce with currant jelly. à la Maintenon are split, stuffed with Duxelles sauce, broiled, and served with a Jardinière or Financière garnish. Stuffed with an onion sauce, they are called à la Pompadour. à la Marquise. A slice of ham laid on each cutlet, and veal forcemeat spread on it in a mound; sprinkled with breadcrumbs and browned; served in white sauce with chopped ham. à la Réforme-breadcrumbed, with chopped ham mixed with the crumbs, fried, and served with Réforme sauce. They may have a Réforme garnish in the centre.
ENTRÉES.
Côtelettes de mouton à la Juive-coated with forcemeat, glazed, and served with a Macédoine garnish. à la Durcelle-put into paper cases, and baked in brown sauce with Harvey sauce, chopped onions, mushrooms, etc. panées grillées-breadcrumbed and broiled, and served with clear gravy. à la Bretonne are breadcrumbed and fried, and served with mashed turnips, or with a purée of white haricot beans. à la Palestine are served with Jerusalem artichokes cut in little balls, and white sauce. au parmesan have parmesan mixed with the breadcrumbs, and are served with a cheese sauce. à la Dreux are served with mashed potatoes, and are garnished with chopped ham and gherkins. à la Napolitaine are served with Chevreuil sauce, garnished with strips of truffle, tongue and macaroni. à la Cussy are served in a white sauce with chopped ham and mushrooms. aux pointes d'asperges-served with a garnish in the centre of asparagus in white sauce. aux truffes served in brown sauce, with truffles cut in slices. aux petites racines-on a mashed potato border with carrots and turnips cut in long shapes, and brown sauce. They are also served with any kind of dressed vegetable or purée of vegetable, or with Hollandaise, Italienne, Lyonnaise, Maître d'hôtel or other sauce.
They are named after the sauce or vegetable with which they are served.
Two sections run together here: sweetbreads, then some forty named ways of serving a mutton cutlet. The second half is less a list of recipes than a grid, and reading it as a grid is the only way through it.
- Sweetbreads, and the work the book leaves outSweetbreads are glands, thymus from the throat and pancreas from the belly. Before any of these dishes they have to be soaked through several changes of cold water, blanched, trimmed of membrane and pressed flat under a weight until cold. The book says none of this because no cook of the day needed telling.
- The gridCoating, cooking method, sauce, garnish. Take one from each column and the dish has a name. Crumbed and fried with a sharp brown sauce is one thing; crumbed with Parmesan in the crumbs and a cheese sauce is another. Nothing here is difficult. It is the naming that is elaborate.
- Mutton is not lambMutton is a mature sheep, firm and dark, with strong fat. It is scarce now and hogget is the nearest thing. This matters because almost every sauce on the page is sharp — vinegar, currant jelly, gherkin, tomato, Poivrade — and those sauces are answering the fat, not the meat.
- Hâtelettes and paper frillsThe hâtelette, or attelette, was an ornamental skewer, often silver, that went to the table still carrying the food. The paper frill on a cutlet bone let a guest pick the cutlet up. Both have gone and both are easy to reproduce if you want the effect.
- En robe de chambreCutlets covered with veal forcemeat, crumbed and browned, so the meat arrives in a dressing gown. The name is a joke about the coating, and it is one of the very few on this page that tells a cook anything at all.
Dinner was served in sequence, dish after dish, and a season meant the same few cuts going round the same table again and again. A kitchen that could put a mutton cutlet on the card forty different ways was solving a problem of repetition rather than one of cookery. The guests had very likely eaten that cutlet a fortnight earlier. What they must not do is recognise it.