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Entrées: Slices
Tournedos à la sauce poivrade. Slices of cooked fillet dressed in a crown alternately with fried slices of bread of the same size; Poivrade sauce in the centre.
This may be served with olives or French beans, instead of Poivrade sauce; and would then be called Tournedos aux olives, or aux haricots verts.
Slices of the fillet served with Piquante, Hollandaise or other sauce, are called after the sauce with which they are served. À la Naples, they are served with a cheese sauce; aux pruneaux, with a compote of prunes.
Mironton de bœuf are slices of cooked beef in a savoury brown sauce, covered with breadcrumbs and baked. This dish is often called Escalopes de bœuf au gratin. It may be served aux câpres-with a sharp sauce and capers, and à la St. Jacques-with a garnish of mushrooms and cherries.
Mironton de bœuf aux choux is the dish known as Bubble-and-Squeak.
Olives, or Paupiettes, de bœuf are slices of beef spread with forcemeat, rolled, stewed, and served in the sauce. They may be garnished aux oliveswith olives, or aux tomates-with tomatoes. Salade de bœuf à la Château. Little rolled slices of beef served on an aspic border with a mixed vegetable salad in the centre.
Bouilli en matelote. Slices of boiled beef in a sauce of stock, wine, onions, mushrooms, etc.
ENTRÉES.
Entre-côtes de bœuf à la Bordelaise are thick slices of ribs of beef, broiled and served in Bordelaise sauce with pieces of beef marrow.
Timbale de bœuf à la Milanaise is a mould lined with macaroni, filled with a preparation of minced beef.
A mould of beef is served as Gâteau, or Pain, de bœuf, à la Naples-with a cheese sauce, à la Milanaise-with a garnish of macaroni.
Côtelettes de bœuf à la Moltke are cutlet moulds of beef forcemeat, served with a Milanaise garnish and a rich tomato sauce.
Dormers de bœuf are beef dormers-the whites of hard-boiled eggs filled with a purée of beef.
They are sometimes breadcrumbed and fried.
Read the verbs on this page carefully. Slices of cooked fillet, slices of cooked beef, slices of boiled beef: most of what is listed here starts with meat that was already served once.
- This is the second day in FrenchThe entrée course is where yesterday’s joint reappeared. A large household boiled and roasted big pieces, and the cook’s standing problem was what to do with the remainder, which is the real subject of this page. Nothing here says so, and nothing needs to.
- The book translates its own grandest nameMironton de boeuf aux choux is the dish known as Bubble-and-Squeak. Beef and cabbage fried together, given a French name for the card and its English one in the gloss. The distance between the two is the whole business of this volume, stated in a single sentence.
- Olives de boeuf are not olivesThey are paupiettes: slices of beef spread with forcemeat and rolled, named for the shape. The page then offers them aux olives, with actual olives, in the next clause. A reader who does not catch the distinction will mis-order the dish.
- Tournedos, built cold and reheatedSlices of already-cooked fillet stood in a crown alternating with fried bread rounds of the same size, sauce poured into the middle. A tournedos now means a thick steak cut raw and grilled to order. Same word, opposite dish, and the earlier one is a cold-kitchen assembly finished in sauce.
- Beef marrow as a garnishEntre-côtes à la Bordelaise arrives with pieces of beef marrow laid on the meat: marrow poached out of the bone, sliced, and used for richness. Marrow bones are cheap and back in butchers’ windows, and this is the oldest and best use for them.
- Moulds, not cakesTimbale, Gâteau and Pain de boeuf are all minced beef packed into a lined mould and turned out. Their nearest living relative is a terrine, and the macaroni lining of the Milanaise version is the sort of structural decoration that has disappeared with the moulds that made it possible.
The page is an argument about what a big kitchen was actually for. The same list that offers Entre-côtes de boeuf à la Bordelaise also offers Bubble-and-Squeak, and the whites of hard-boiled eggs filled with a purée of beef and fried. Thrift and display were not opposed here; they were the same operation, because the way to serve cold beef to guests was to take it apart, mix it with something, and give it a shape and a name. What the household wanted was not to eat better than it could afford but to have its economies legible on the dinner card as French dishes.