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Fish or Poissons: Mayonnaise
Côtelettes de saumon en Mayonnaise are cutlet moulds of salmon forcemeat, served cold with salad and Mayonnaise sauce.
Chaudfroid de saumon à la Tartare is cold salmon served in Tartare sauce. à l'Alexandra. Little slices of salmon on croutes of fried bread or light pastry, dressed on a salad border with a whipped Mayonnaise cream in the centre.
SHAD, Alose à la Maître d'hôtel is baked, and served with Maître d'hôtel sauce. It is also dressed in fillets, sauté.
SKATE.
Raie à la Maître d'hôtel is boiled and served with Maître d'hôtel sauce; au beurre noir, with black butter sauce. à la Orly-fried and served with tomato sauce. à la Hollandaise-served with Hollandaise sauce. à la Génoise-served in a brown sauce with anchovy and chopped parsley. à la noisette-served in butter sauce with the pounded liver of the skate, and Tarragon vinegar. aux fines herbes-cooked with milk, butter, flour, lemon, herbs, etc., and served with fine-herbs sauce.
Skate is obtained crimped and filleted. It is never served whole.
SMELTS.
Eperlans à la Juive are breadcrumbed, fried, and served without sauce. Served with anchovy sauce in a sauce-boat, they are called à l'Anglaise; or with tomato sauce, à la Orly. en ragoût-stewed in white stock with herbs and wine. au gratin-baked with melted butter and dried herbs, covered with breadcrumbs.
Buisson d'éperlans-breadcrumbed and fried with their tails in their mouths. Melted butter should be served with them.
SOLES.
Soles frites à l'Anglaise are breadcrumbed and fried. au gratin-covered with brown sauce and breadcrumbs, and baked. à la Normande-stewed and served in a rich brown sauce with oysters. à la Portugaise are dressed in the same way as plaice. à la crème d'anchois-boiled and served in a white sauce, with anchovy and whipped cream. à l'aurore-stuffed and baked; served in a white sauce, with grated Parmesan and hard-boiled egg. à la Cardinal-stuffed, baked, and served in Cardinal sauce. à la Colbert-stuffed with Maître d'hôtel butter, and served with Maître d'hôtel sauce. à la Maître d'hôtel-served in Maître d'hôtel The same dish may be made with sauce. fillets. à la Trouville-cut in two or three pieces, and cooked with butter, breadcrumbs, chopped onions and cider.
Filets de soles au gratin. Fillets breadcrumbed and fried; covered with brown sauce and breadcrumbs, and baked. à l'Italienne are sauté, and served in white Italian sauce.
They are served à la Hollandaise, in Hollandaise sauce; or en Ravigote, in Ravigote sauce.
Filets de soles en matelote are cut in halves, breadcrumbed and fried; dressed in a crown, with Matelote sauce in the centre.
If à la Vienne are rolled, stuffed with fish forcemeat, and served with anchovy sauce. served in a white sauce, they are called à la Reine. à la Bohémienne are folded fillets served in a white sauce, garnished with truffle, hard-boiled egg, lobster coral, and chopped parsley. à la Duc de Naples are served cold, masked alternately with green and white Mayonnaise aspic, on an aspic border with salad in the centre, and are garnished with cucumber and hard-boiled white of egg. à la Dauphine are rolled, stuffed, breadcrumbed and fried, and served with lobster sauce. If stuffed with oysters, etc., and served with oyster sauce, they are called à la Rothschild; or stuffed with lobster sauce and served with tomato sauce, à la Chesterfield. à la Rouennaise are coated with whiting forcemeat coloured with lobster spawn, and served with white Matelote sauce.
They may also be served en caisses, in little cases; or cold en Mayonnaise, with salad and Mayonnaise sauce; or en aspic, set in moulds of aspic.
SPRATS.
Esprots à l'Anglaise are fried. au gratin are baked with herbs and breadcrumbs. à la Diable are devilled.
STURGEON.
Esturgeon en fricandeau is cut in thick slices, larded, stewed with bacon and mushrooms, and browned. à la Royale-tied up in the form of a bolster, covered with forcemeat, and ornamented with pieces of truffle, tongue, etc.
Darne d'esturgeon au four is a baked slice of sturgeon. braisée is larded and braised. grillée sauce piquante is broiled, and served with Piquante sauce. à la Bourguignotte is served with Bourguignotte sauce.
Tanche frite is fried. sur le gril is grilled.
TENCH. au court-bouillon-boiled in court-bouillon, and served with caper sauce. farcie-stuffed and baked.
TROUT.
Truites au bleu are turned blue with boiling vinegar, and boiled in it with wine and vegetables; served with oil and vinegar. frites are fried.
Truites en ragôut are stewed. à la Beyrout are dressed in the same way as salmon. à la Maître d'hôtel-served with Maître d'hôtel sauce. à la Chambord-cooked in marinade sauce, and garnished with crayfish, quenelles of fish, and sweetbreads. à la hussarde-stuffed with butter and herbs; broiled, and served with Poivrade sauce. à la Périgueux-stuffed with a truffle stuffing, and served with Périgueux sauce. This is also called à la Rothschild.
Filets de truites à la Mazarine are fillets sauté, and served in a sauce of melted butter, yolks of eggs, lobster spawn, anchovy, etc. à l'aurore are covered with white sauce, grated Parmesan, and hard-boiled egg. à la Genevoise are served with Genevoise sauce. à l'Alexandra are rolled, and served cold, garnished with green butter and little balls of cucumber. They are sometimes served in little paper cases.
TUNNY.
Thon frit is cut in pieces and fried. It is served with Remoulade sauce.
TURBOT.
Turbot à la Hollandaise is boiled, and served with Hollandaise sauce; sauce homard, with lobster sauce.
Turbot à la crème-served with a sauce of cream, yolks of eggs and lemon juice. à la crème d'anchois served in a sauce of melted butter, anchovy butter, and cream, sprinkled with chopped gherkins and capers. à la Mazarine-served in the same sauce as fillets of trout " à la Mazarine." à la Russe-served with horseradish sauce. à la Napier-served in a white sauce with mussels. à la Morny-served in a cheese sauce. à la Réligieuse-served in Hollandaise sauce, sprinkled with chopped tarragon and truffle, and garnished with hard-boiled egg. grillé à la Vatel-grilled, and served with mussel sauce, and crayfish or prawns. à la Parisienne-stuffed and baked, and served with a white sauce. Served with white Matelote sauce, it is called à la Normande. au gratin, or à la Béchamel. Pieces of turbot in Béchamel sauce, covered with breadcrumbs and grated Parmesan, and browned. Dressed with shrimp sauce and served in scallop shells, it is called à la Reynière. à la crème gratiné. Alternate layers of pieces of turbot and of a sauce of milk, butter, flour, yolks of eggs, parsley, etc., sprinkled with breadcrumbs and grated Parmesan, and browned. ari gratin à la Provençale. Alternate layers of pieces of turbot and Provençale sauce, breadcrumbed and browned. Petit turbot à la Meuniere is a small fish crimped, grilled, and served in a sauce of melted butter, yolks of eggs and lemon juice.
Filets de turbot à l'Impériale are small fillets, masked alternately with red and white sauce, and served with Cardinal sauce. à l'Impératrice are masked with white forcemeat, decorated with red forcemeat, and are served on a forcemeat border with a red sauce.
WEAVERS.
Vives au gratin are stewed, breadcrumbed, and baked. à la Normande-larded with pieces of eel and anchovy; cooked in wine with butter and vegetables, and served in the sauce. If served with Italian sauce, they are called à la Bordelaise. à la Maître d'hôtel-broiled, and served with Maître d'hôtel sauce.
WHITEBAIT.
Blanchailles are fried. They should be served with lemon, cayenne, and slices of bread and butter. à la Diable are devilled.
WHITING.
Merlans au gratin, or à l'Anglaise, are bread- 1 crumbed and fried with their tails in their mouths.
Merlans à la Française-dipped in milk, floured, and fried; served with anchovy or any other sauce.
Filets de merlans à la Hollandaise. Fillets served with Hollandaise sauce. They may also be served with Italian, Bordelaise, Fines-herbes, and other sauces. à la Orly are floured, fried, and served with tomato sauce. à l'Aurore are served in an egg sauce with cheese. à la Vatel are served in tomato sauce, garnished with strips of anchovies and gherkins. à la Comtesse are baked in paper cases, and garnished with forcemeat balls, and prawns or crayfish tails. à l'Excellence are fried, and served in a rich white sauce with capers and anchovies.
Petites crèmes de merlans à l'aspic are little creams of whiting, served cold, garnished with aspic.
Soufflé de merlan en surprise is a baked soufflé of whiting with a ragoût of lobster in the centre.
A list of fish and the sauces that gave them their names. Most of the sauces are still made. Several of the fish are now hard to buy, protected, or sold under another name.
- Skate is not skate nowWhat a fishmonger sells as skate wing is almost always a ray. The common skate is protected and may not be landed in European waters. The page’s own note still holds: skate is bought crimped and filleted and never served whole, so what you take home is a wing, and every sauce listed here suits it.
- Sturgeon is farmed or nothingWild sturgeon is protected under international trade controls. Esturgeon en fricandeau treats it as a meat — thick slices larded with bacon, stewed with mushrooms and browned — which is a fair description of the texture. Farmed sturgeon is the only honest route to the dish.
- Smelts and spratsBoth are still landed and both have nearly left the counter. Smelts are small and were crumbed and fried whole; sprats are oilier and take the devilling the page suggests. A fishmonger can order either in season, and they arrive whole.
- Buisson d’éperlansSmelts crumbed and fried with their tails in their mouths and piled into a bush. The presentation is the dish, and it is the clearest case on the page of a name that describes an arrangement rather than a method.
- Ask for the bonesEverything called filets de soles here is rolled, folded, stuffed or crumbed, which means the fish has to be filleted first. Half the sauces on the page are built on the frame that filleting produces, so it should come home with the fillets.
- Cold dishes built to standChaudfroid, mayonnaise, aspic, en caisses, masked alternately with green and white mayonnaise aspic: a third of the page is cold fish assembled in advance and armoured in jelly. These were made to be looked at on a sideboard through a long service, which is the condition no domestic kitchen now arranges for, and the reason for all that aspic in the first place.
The page is a vocabulary, and the vocabulary is the point. Alose, Raie, Eperlans, Esprots, Esturgeon, Soles: an English cook who had bought shad or skate at an English market needed the French word before the dish could be written on a card. Underneath that, the list records what a fishmonger could supply on a given morning, with salmon and sole at the top of the price list and shad, smelts, sprats and skate beneath them, each with its own run of sauces. It also records a dinner that expected more than one fish dish, one hot and one cold, which is why the cold half of the page is as long as the hot.