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Removes or Releves: Lapereaux
Lapereaux à l'Anglaise are stewed, and served with Soubise sauce. grillés are flattened and broiled; served with butter and chopped parsley. à la sauce are boiled, and served in white sauce. aux petits pois are cooked in a white sauce with onions, green peas, etc. If mushrooms are substituted for the peas, they are called à la Tavernière. à la Jardinière are cooked in white sauce, with young onions, carrots and turnips cut in little balls, and peas.
Lapereaux à la villageoise-stuffed, roasted, and served in melted butter sauce with shallots, etc. aux groseilles vertes are roasted or stewed, and served with green gooseberry sauce.
Galantine de lapin is made of rabbit boned, stuffed, and braised. It is served cold, garnished with the sauce in a jelly.
Rabbit pie is served as Pâté chaud de lapereaux.
If made in a raised pie dish, it is called Lapereaux en terrine.
PHEASANTS.
Faisans à la Soubise are braised pheasants covered with Soubise sauce; aux marrons with chestnut sauce. à la purée de gibier are larded, braised, and served with purée of game sauce. à la Fontainebleau-the breasts are larded in a square; they are braised in white stock with lettuces, sausages, etc., and served with the lettuces and sausages, and brown sauce. à la Gitana-stewed with bacon, slices of Portugal onions, tomatoes, wine, etc. à la Flamande-stewed with bacon, sausages, cabbages, etc.; served with the cabbages pressed and cut in shapes, carrots and turnips, and Poivrade sauce. à l'étouffade-larded and stewed; served with game sauce. à la Beauharnais braised, and served in truffle sauce, with mushrooms, artichoke bottoms, and asparagus points.
Faisans à la Victoria-stuffed with a forcemeat of oysters, bacon and herbs, stewed, and served with oyster sauce. aux foies gras-stuffed with foie gras, ham, truffle, etc., and roasted. truffés à la Piémontaise - stuffed with truffle stuffing, roasted, and served with a sauce of aspic and wine with slices of truffles. à la Bohémienne-stuffed with foie gras, truffle, etc.; cooked in mirepoix, and served in the sauce with truffles and foie gras. à la Connaught-stuffed with chestnut stuffing, roasted, and served with a watercress salad. à la Saint-Cloud-boned, filled with a stuffing of the livers with partridge, truffles, etc.; roasted, and served on toast with Italian sauce and truffles.
Pâté chaud de faison aux truffes is a pie of pheasant with forcemeat and truffles.
PARTRIDGES.
Young rabbits, briefly, and then two dozen ways with pheasant. The page is a glossary, but the pattern in it is a practical lesson about lean birds.
- Lapereau is a young rabbitThe page changes words deliberately. Lapereaux, young rabbits, are broiled, roasted and served with peas; lapin, the grown animal, appears only boned and braised as a galantine or baked in a pie. Age decided the method, and the word told the cook which animal was on the slab.
- Farmed and wild are different meatRabbit sold now is mostly farmed: pale, mild and tender enough for the quick treatments at the top of this page. Wild rabbit is darker, leaner and much tougher, and the long braises and pies lower down were written for it. The French does not distinguish them; the butcher does.
- Galantine is boned and pressedThe animal is boned out, laid flat, stuffed, rolled, braised, pressed, and served cold in its own jellied stock. The jelly is not a garnish but structure: it is the thing that holds a slice together when it is cut.
- Pheasant breast dries outNearly every pheasant entry here is larded, braised, stewed or stuffed, and hardly one is plainly roasted. That is not fussiness. A pheasant carries almost no fat, and the breast is dry long before the legs give. Every solution on this page is a way of getting fat into or around the bird.
- Terrine is the dishThe page says that rabbit pie made in a raised dish is called en terrine. Terrine is the earthenware vessel, and the food took its name from the container it was cooked in, which is how the modern meaning of the word arrived.
- Game sauces start with the carcassFumet de gibier, purée de gibier, salmis: all of these begin from the bones and trimmings of the same game. The page assumes the sauce for tonight was started from last night’s skeleton, and that nothing went out.
The pheasant list is a list of what a shooting household did with a glut. Birds arrive in quantity on a handful of days and then not at all, so the book answers with twenty ways to cook one of them: stuffed with oysters and bacon, stuffed with foie gras, with chestnuts, with truffles, boned and filled with its own livers, stewed with cabbage, baked in a pie. That is the shape of a larder that fills up overnight. Rabbit sits in the same chapter at the other end of the social scale, the one meat here that a cottage and a country house both ate, and the book quietly marks the difference with its labels: a stuffed roast rabbit is à la villageoise, and the same dish with mushrooms instead of peas is à la Tavernière. Where this book reaches for a rustic French word, it is almost always dressing up something perfectly plain.