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Removes or Releves: Quartier
The Fore-quarter as- Quartier d'agneau à la broche is roasted. à l'hôtelière roasted, and served in a sauce of Maître d'hôtel butter with cream.
Quartier d'agneau farci-a stuffing put between the neck and shoulder, roasted and served with brown sauce.
Côtes d'agneau à la Chancelière is a roast forequarter, the shoulder cut out, and the meat of it minced with ham, truffles, etc., mixed with white sauce, and put into the space the shoulder was cut from; breadcrumbed, browned, and served with white sauce.
Selle d'agneau rôtie is a roast saddle of lamb. It is served à l'Indienne with Indian sauce and Indian pickles; and à la bonne fermière-with lamb's fry, breadcrumbed and fried, and mint sauce. braisée à l'Allemande - boned, stuffed and braised; served with Allemande sauce and any vegetable garnish. à la Villeroi is dressed in the same way, covered with Allemande sauce, and sprinkled with breadcrumbs and grated Parmesan. à la Ménagère is dressed like saddle of mutton à la Polonaise, with a white instead of a brown sauce, and the meat cut in small square slices.
The forequarter of lamb roasted in one piece, and the saddle, with the dressings that went on each. These are the two largest pieces of a small animal and no modern counter sells either as the page describes it.
- A forequarter is three joints joinedShoulder, breast and ribs, still in one piece. A whole forequarter of lamb was ordinary once and is a special order now; the three cuts are sold separately, and roasting them together is something a modern cook has to decide to do on purpose.
- The shoulder put backCôtes d’agneau à la Chancelière takes the shoulder out of the roast forequarter, minces it with ham and truffle in white sauce, returns the mixture to the hole the shoulder came from, crumbs it and browns it. It is a stuffed shoulder solved backwards, and the logic holds: the hardest joint to carve becomes the one needing no carving.
- À la broche is not oven roastingOn a spit the joint turns in front of a fire, bastes itself in its own running fat and cooks by radiant heat from one side. An oven surrounds it with hot air instead. The results differ, and a rotisserie attachment is closer to the original than any oven setting.
- Lamb’s fryCrumbed and fried, served alongside the saddle à la bonne fermière. The term covered different organs in different places and the page does not say which it means. Whatever came out of the carcass was cooked and eaten the same day.
- Mint sauce in companyHere it appears next to Indian sauce and Indian pickles on the same joint. Chopped mint steeped in vinegar with a little sugar is a sharp condiment rather than a jelly, and the page treats it as one option among several, not as the fixed partner of lamb.
The names on this page reach downwards on purpose. À la Ménagère is the housekeeper, à l’hôtelière the innkeeper’s wife, à la bonne fermière the good farmer’s wife. Every one of them is attached to a dish involving cream, forcemeat, Allemande sauce or grated Parmesan. The rustic name was a style, chosen for a card by a household that wanted the idea of plain country cooking and had a kitchen capable of anything but.