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Removes or Releves: Gigot
A Leg of lamb may be dressed the same as a leg of mutton; also as- Gigot d'agneau bouilli aux épinards--boiled and served on spinach; or à la Palestine-with a purée of Jerusalem artichokes.
The Loin is roasted, or dressed en Cannelon, in the same way as mutton.
The Breast as- Poitrine d'agneau aux petits pois is stewed with peas. à la Turque is boned, rolled and braised, and served with rice cooked in stock with saffron, currants and sultanas.
The Neck as- Carré d'agneau au cresson, is roasted, and served with watercress; aux légumes printanierswith spring vegetables. à la Bruxellaise is braised and served on a purée of Brussels sprouts. aux cerises is served with cherry sauce. à la Douairière is braised, and served in a white sauce with cocks' combs, and braised lambs' breads cut in slices.
The Shoulder, or- Épaule d'agneau, is roasted; served à la Maître d'hôtel-with Maître d'hôtel sauce; or aux pointes d'asperges-with asparagus heads and white sauce. Boned, larded, braised and glazed, it is served cold as glacée. à la Montmorency-boned, stuffed with forcemeat, larded and braised; served with Toulouse garnish. It is also dressed à la Polonaise in the same way as a saddle of mutton.
Pâté chaud d'agneau is a hot pie of lamb cutlets, with potatoes, white sauce, etc.
PORK.
Selle de porc frais is a roast saddle of pork. A la Robert-it has Robert sauce.
A Leg of pork as- Gigot de pore bouilli is boiled with the carrots, turnips and parsnips with which it is served. à la Piémontaise is roasted and served in a highly seasoned brown sauce, with Chili vinegar and olives. à l'Allemande is pickled, boiled, and served with stewed red cabbage and pickled cabbage, carrots and turnips, and Poivrade sauce.
Echinée de porc rôtie is a roast chine of pork.
Côtes de porc is a spare-rib of pork. À la Diplomate, it is braised and served in a brown sauce with sausages and stuffed potatoes.
Carré de pore à la Rémoulade is a roast neck served in Rémoulade sauce with chopped Indian pickles. à l'Alsacienne is braised and served with pickled cabbage, potato croquettes, and sausage balls. à la Russe-braised, and served in orange sauce with sultanas.
A remove was the large joint that replaced the fish or the soup on the table, and this is the lamb and pork end of that chapter. The cut names are where it will trip a modern reader.
- What a remove wasThe relevé came up as the preceding course went down, and it was substantial: a whole leg, saddle, shoulder or loin, carved in front of the company. Every dressing here assumes the joint reaches the table whole and intact.
- Carré is the rackThe page calls carré d’agneau the neck. It means the best end of neck, which is exactly what a butcher now sells as a rack of lamb. Roasted and sent up with watercress, au cresson, it is still the best thing described here.
- English spare rib is not a ribCôtes de porc is given as a spare rib of pork, which in British butchery is a cut from the shoulder and not the rib bones sold for barbecue. Échinée is the chine, along the backbone. Order these by description rather than by name.
- Breast of lamb, boned and braisedPoitrine d’agneau à la Turque, boned, rolled, braised and served with rice cooked in stock with saffron, currants and sultanas, is cheap, slow and very good. The breast is the one cut on this page that is both still available and still underrated.
- Garnishes you cannot buyCocks’ combs and lambs’ breads, both in the à la Douairière entry, have gone from the trade. Lamb sweetbreads can sometimes be ordered. Leave the combs out; nothing replaces them and nothing is lost.
- Pickled porkÀ l’Allemande begins by pickling the leg, meaning several days in brine with salt, sugar and spice before it is boiled. The result is nearer to a ham than to a roast, and the red cabbage and the Poivrade sauce are pitched against the salt.
A remove came to the table whole and was taken apart in public, which is why the chapter is organised by joint rather than by method. Which part of a leg or a shoulder a guest received was decided in front of everybody by whoever held the knife, and a household bought the large cut partly because the ceremony of dividing it was half of what the meal was for. The pork at the foot of the page, boiled with its own carrots and turnips and parsnips, is the plain version of the same idea.