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Soups or Potages: Hollandaise
It may be garnished with macaroni, or with vegetables cut in shreds. à la Hollandaise is a white soup with cream and yolks of eggs. à la Romaine is a white soup garnished with little balls of rice. à la Duchesse is a white soup garnished with quenelles. à la Moderne is a white soup with shreds of fried lettuce. This is often called à l'Impératrice. à la Maltaise is a rich white soup, garnished with slices of oranges, and shreds of capsicums, chillies and of orange peel. à la Florenza is a white soup with macaroni and grated cheese.
Crème à la Royale is a white soup with little dice shapes of cheese custard.
Crème à la Zingari is a white soup garnished with red, black and yellow quenelles.
Potage Jardinière à la Hollandaise is white soup with a Jardinière garnish.
Cockie leekie is made of pheasant or chicken with leeks. French plums may be added to it. à la Friar Tuck is a chicken soup, garnished with pieces of the chicken and shreds of leeks. au sagou is sago soup; au tapioca-tapioca soup.
Garnished with strips of chicken, tongue and truffles, it is Potage à la Gouffé. vermicelle à la Hollandaise is vermicelli soup with cream and yolks of eggs.
Pilau de riz is rice boiled in stock. au mouton. Mutton broth served with the mutton in it. à l'Irlandaise is mutton broth with potatoes. à l'Ecossaise. Scotch broth of mutton with barley, chopped parsley, and vegetables cut in dice. Sheep's-head soup is also called by this name.
Hoche-pot. Hodge-podge soup, of mutton with vegetables. de riz à la Turque. Mutton broth served with rice.
Pot-au-feu. Uncleared stock served with the vegetables in it.
Livonien. Purée of vegetables and rice, with cream and yolks of eggs.
Solférino. Stock with young vegetables, purée of tomatoes, chopped parsley, etc. à la Grecque. Pea soup and Jardinière soup Another with pieces of braised mutton.
Potage à la Grecque is a fish soup with tomatoes, garnished with oysters.
Potage à la Bagration. White fish soup with curry powder, crayfish tails, chopped sole, and vegetables. aux filets de soles. Veal or fish stock with fillets of sole. à la Poissonnière, or Crème de poisson. White fish soup.; Bisque au riz is a shellfish soup with rice. à la Nîmoise. Fish stock with yolks of eggs. à la Brisse. Chicken soup with small shapes of vegetable cream, made of a purée of the vegetable with eggs. à la Maréchale is a bread soup garnished with quenelles of crayfish or shrimps. à la Tyrolienne is barley soup garnished with carrots. à l'Allemande is white sago or tapioca soup with Brunoise vegetables. à la Polonaise is a potato soup with cheese and macaroni. à la Pluche is a potato soup with shreds of carrots. à la Conservative is a purée of potatoes with cream and yolks of eggs, garnished with little red and white quenelles. It is sometimes made in the same way with a purée of carrots. à la Boston is made with tomatoes, potatoes, and okra.
Potage à la Flamande is a white vegetable soup. à la Jubilé is made of a purée of tomatoes and mushrooms. à la Dauphine is a purée of peas and tomatoes, garnished with little strips of ham and of vegetables. à la Modena is a spinach soup with eggs. à la St. Louis is a purée of white vegetables with shreds of carrot. à la St. Marçeau is a purée of peas with shreds of leeks and of lettuces. au macaroni. Macaroni soup. With the addition of rice, it is called à la Turque; or with cream and yolks of eggs, à la Hollandaise.
Garnished with little pieces of game, it is à la Chasseur.
Besides these there are the Purées :- Purée de gibier. Purée of game.
Purée de lapereaux. Purée of rabbit.
Purée de grouses. Purée of grouse.
Purée de volaille.
Purée of fowl. It may be served à la Milanaise, garnished with macaroni; or à la Napolitaine, with the addition of pounded almonds, and a garnish of pieces of chicken and tongue.
And the Vegetable Purées :- Purée de pommes de terre. Potato purée. This is often called Potage Parmentier, on account of Parmentier having introduced potatoes into France. It may be curried and served à l'Indienne; or aux quenelles, garnished with quenelles ; à la St. Germain, with peas; à la Milanaise, with macaroni.
Purée de petits pois or pois verts. Purée of green peas. This can also be called Potage à la D'Artois. Served with whole peas in it, it is Potage à la St. Germain.
Potage à la Palestine. Purée of Jerusalem artichokes. Potage à la Crécy. Purée of carrots.
Purée d'asperges. Purée of asparagus. It can be served à la Princesse with the addition of rice.
T Purée de céleris. Purée of celery.
Purée de marrons. Purée of chestnuts.
Potage à la Bretonne. Purée of turnips. As Purée de navets à la Française, it is served with fried bread.
Purée de choux-fieurs. Purée of cauliflower. This soup with the addition of tapioca is called Potage à la Chartreuse.
Purée de concombres. Purée of cucumbers.
Potage à la Soubise. Purée of onions.
Purée d'épinards, or Potage vert-pré. Purée of spinach.
Purée de tomates, or Potage à l'Américaine. Purée of tomatoes. Served à la Mancelle, it is garnished with chestnuts.
Purée de potirons. Purée of vegetable marrow.
Potage à la Condé. Purée of red haricots.
Potage Poméranienne, or à la Dustan. Purée of white haricots.
Potage à la Chantilly. Purée of lentils.
Potage à la Stamboul.
Purée of rice and tomatoes.
Purée d'artichauts. Purée of artichokes.
Purée d'oseille. Purée of sorrel.
Purée de fèves.
Purée of beans.
Purée de pois.
Purée of dried peas.
Purée de chicorée. Purée of endive.
Potage Crécy à la Chantilly. Purée of carrots and lentils.
Purée de marrons à la Mancelle. Purée of chestnuts with purée of game.
When made with the addition of cream, these purées are often called Crème d'artichauts, etc., instead of Purée.
A long run through the soup chapter, from white soups and purees to Scotch broth and pot-au-feu. One phrase recurs often enough to be worth unpacking properly.
- À la Hollandaise is a methodFour separate soups on this page become Hollandaise by the same step: cream and egg yolks stirred in at the end. That liaison thickens and enriches without flour, and it will curdle the moment the soup boils afterwards. The page never says so, and a modern cook following it blind will split the soup.
- Two soups were put out, not oneA formal dinner offered a clear soup and a thick one and let each guest choose. That convention is why this chapter runs to hundreds of entries sorted into consommés, crèmes and purées: a hostess needed one from each column, not one soup.
- Pot-au-feu is the stock itselfThe page defines it as uncleared stock served with the vegetables left in, which is the exact opposite of a consommé, the same liquid clarified until it is transparent. Every other entry in the chapter sits somewhere between those two definitions.
- Cockie leekie, with prunesMade of pheasant or chicken with leeks, and the page adds that French plums may be put in. The prunes are not a later embellishment of the dish; they are printed here as an option, and they are what gives it more than chicken and leek to taste.
- Quenelles did the identifyingRed, black and yellow quenelles, little balls of rice, dice of cheese custard, shreds of fried lettuce. A thick soup was recognised by what floated in it, and every one of those garnishes was coloured, shaped and poached by hand. The hand-work is what has gone, not the soups.
- Okra on an English pagePotage à la Boston is tomatoes, potatoes and okra, sitting unremarked between a potato soup and a vegetable one. The chapter took a name and a garnish from anywhere it could get them.
This is the book’s largest chapter and it is really a list of things to do with stock. One pot in the morning becomes a consommé for the dining room, a purée for the second soup, and broth for everything else. What is striking is the company the entries keep. Scotch broth, hodge-podge, mutton broth served with the mutton in it, broth with rice, broth with potatoes, sheep’s-head soup: these are set in the same type, on the same page, as a white soup garnished with dice of cheese custard and a fish soup with crayfish tails and curry powder. The nursery, the sickroom, the servants’ hall and the dinner table were all fed out of the same stockpot by the same cook on the same afternoon, and nowhere else in the book is that arrangement so plainly visible.