Corn Fritters

A thin drop batter lightened with beaten egg white, fried in bacon fat and served with the bacon itself. The only vague measure is the corn, and the only real technique is keeping the white airy.

• "Half a can" of cornCanned corn of the period commonly came in cans of roughly 16-20 oz, so half a can is on the order of three-quarters of a cup to a cup of drained kernels. Drain canned corn well or the batter will slacken; from fresh ears, a cup is about two medium cobs.
• Fat depth and heatThe recipe gives neither depth nor temperature; the quantity of bacon fat implies shallow frying rather than deep-frying. Enough fat to come about 1/4 inch up the pan, hot but not smoking, and frying in batches so the heat holds, suits the method.
• Bacon fat quantityFive or six slices of bacon rarely yield enough fat for a full batch. Render eight to ten slices, or top up with a neutral oil and keep the bacon for the garnish.
• Fold, then fry at onceThe whipped white is the only lift beyond the teaspoon of baking powder. Fold it in with a few strokes and cook immediately; a batter left standing collapses and the fritters turn dense.
• Batter thicknessWith 3/4 cup flour and only 1 1/2 tablespoons milk, the mix is stiff before the corn goes in. The moisture from the corn does most of the loosening, so judge by the spoon: it should mound, not pour.
• SeasoningPaprika, salt and pepper are given without amounts. Something like 1/4 teaspoon paprika, 1/2 teaspoon salt and a few grinds of pepper suits this quantity, adjusted down if the bacon is very salty.
• DonenessTwo to three minutes a side, turning once, until deep gold and set in the middle. Corn kernels hold steam, so a fritter that looks done outside can still be raw batter within; break one open to check the first batch.
• Yield and servingServes 5 as written, which works out to two or three small fritters each alongside the bacon. As a supper dish for four, count on a doubled batch.