Modernistic Recipe-Menu Book

Jessie Marie DeBoth's 1929 cooking school, recipe by recipe - planked dinners, bridge parties, a Chinese supper, and a hundred kinds of Christmas cookie.

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Head Lettuce, Chiffonade Dressing

1 solid head lettuce, quartered 1/2 cup French dressing 1 teaspoon each grated onion and diced green pepper 1 tablespoon minced red pepper 1 chopped hard cooked egg Mix ingredients with French dressing, serve over the cleaned and crisped lettuce, very cold.

For the Modern Kitchen

A vinaigrette carrying chopped egg and minced vegetables, spooned over wedges of crisphead lettuce. The whole thing depends on the lettuce being genuinely cold and dry when the dressing hits it.

A Little History

Chiffonade is French for something cut into rags or ribbons, and in professional kitchens it describes leaves shredded fine; applied to a salad dressing in American hotel and restaurant cookery it came to mean a vinaigrette loaded with finely chopped garnish, often hard-cooked egg with beet, pepper or onion. Chiffonade dressing appears on hotel and restaurant dressing lists of the period alongside French, Thousand Island and Roquefort, and a quartered head of crisphead lettuce was a common salad course in American home cookery of these decades. The pairing has a clear descendant in the modern steakhouse wedge salad, where a cold quarter of iceberg carries a dressing usually built on blue cheese and bacon rather than egg and pimiento.

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