Mrs. Fryer's Loose Leaf Cook Book

The loose-leaf cookbook, c.1917 — built to be taken apart, from the principles of cookery through fireless cooking and school lunches.

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Canned Peaches

8 quarts peaches. 3 quarts water 1 quart sugar Make a syrup of the sugar and water; bring to a boil; skim it and draw the kettle aside where the syrup will keep hot but not boil.

Pare the peaches, cutting them in half or not as desired. If in half leave one or two whole peaches for every jar, as the kernel improves the flavor. Put a layer of fruit in the kettle; when it begins to boil skim carefully; boil gently for ten minutes; put in jars and seal. Then cook more of the fruit in similar fashion. If the fruit is not fully ripe it may require a longer time to cook.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is open-kettle canning: hot fruit is ladled into jars and sealed with no further processing. It was standard practice for a century and is no longer considered safe for shelf-stable storage.

A Little History

Mrs. Fryer's Loose Leaf Cook Book belongs to a publishing fashion associated with the 1910s and 1920s: recipes issued as detachable leaves in a binder, so a household could add, discard and reorder pages as its own cooking changed. Its canning chapter reflects the open-kettle method that dominated American home preserving until the 1920s and 1930s, when state agricultural extension services and changes in jar and lid design pushed cooks toward timed boiling-water and pressure processing. The detail about leaving a whole peach or two per jar for the sake of the kernel is older still: the almond-like flavor of stone-fruit pits was deliberately exploited in European preserving and confectionery — the basis of noyau and of the ratafia flavoring in old cake recipes — long before the chemistry behind it was understood. It survives here as a piece of inherited kitchen practice, recorded at almost exactly the moment the science of canning was about to overtake it.

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