Mrs. Fryer's Loose Leaf Cook Book

The loose-leaf cookbook, c.1917 — built to be taken apart, from the principles of cookery through fireless cooking and school lunches.

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Cream Stock

1 pint milk 1 tablespoon flour 1 tablespoon butter 1/2 teaspoon salt Red or black pepper Melt the butter over the fire and add the flour, being careful not to let it brown. Add the milk gradually, stirring constantly to prevent lumps; then add the seasoning.

This cream sauce is used instead of stock as the foundation for many soups. 2 pounds lean beaf 1 small knuckle veal 2 tablespoons butter 1 small onion

For the Modern Kitchen

A thin béchamel doing duty as a soup base — one tablespoon each of butter and flour to a pint of milk, which is lighter than a standard white sauce and meant to be diluted further with purées and vegetable water.

A Little History

Cream soups built on a milk-and-flour base rather than meat broth were a mainstay of turn-of-the-century American domestic cookery, promoted heavily through the cooking-school movement, and comparable "thin white sauce" formulas appear in the standard cooking-school books of the period — though those are generally richer than this one, which uses only a tablespoon each of butter and flour to a full pint of milk. The appeal was practical: a household without a stockpot on the back of the range could still put a cream of celery, tomato, or asparagus on the table in twenty minutes, using milk that was delivered daily and flour that kept indefinitely. Calling it a "stock" positions the sauce as the equal of a meat foundation in a kitchen that had neither the time nor the bones for one.

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