Mrs. Fryer's Loose Leaf Cook Book

The loose-leaf cookbook, c.1917 — built to be taken apart, from the principles of cookery through fireless cooking and school lunches.

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Green Tomato Sauce

4 quarts green tomatoes 1/2 small onion 1 pint vinegar 1 tablespoon sugar 1 tablespoon salt 1 tablespoon mustard 1 tablespoon black pepper 1 tablespoon whole allspice and cloves Wash the tomatoes; remove the stem and blossom ends; slice them without peeling and put them to soak in salt and water over night. In the morning drain them; add the other ingredients and stew until tender. Keep in glass jars.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is an open-kettle preserve: the sauce is cooked in a pot and ladled into jars with no processing step, no headspace, no seal check and no measured acidity. That method is no longer considered safe for a vegetable pickle, and the specific reasons are worth spelling out.

A Little History

Green tomato relishes and sauces were a fixture of American household books through the nineteenth century onward for a simple agricultural reason: the first hard frost arrived while the vines were still carrying quantities of fruit that would never ripen, and nothing was wasted. Chow-chow, green tomato pickle, mincemeat made with green tomatoes and sauces like this one all belong to that end-of-season salvage tradition. What such books did not yet have was any laboratory understanding of pH thresholds or spore survival; the science that made open-kettle canning obsolete came later.

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