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Maple Layer Cake--Donald Fudge

1-3 cake chocolate. 2 cups maple sugar. 1/2 cup butter. 2 1/2 cups flour. 1 teaspoon soda. 2 eggs. 1 cup buttermilk.

Melt chocolate over hot water. Dissolve soda in buttermilk; cream butter and sugar; add eggs, milk and flour; mix well; fold in melted chocolate last. Bake in two layers.

For the Modern Kitchen

A plain buttermilk-and-soda layer cake sweetened entirely with maple sugar. The instructions assume a cook who already knows her pans and her oven, so the two things most needed here are a temperature and a tin size.

A Little History

Maple sugar was one of the standard cane-sugar substitutes urged on American households: domestically produced, plentiful in the Northeast, and often said to be less exposed to shipping and rationing pressures. Buttermilk and soda as the sole leavening is older still: it predates reliable commercial baking powder and survived in home baking long after, partly from habit and partly for the character the acid gives the crumb. The fragmentary chocolate measure, one-third of a cake, is a reminder that baking chocolate was sold in scored blocks meant to be broken down.

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