The New Royal Cook Book

Royal Baking Powder's 1922 campaign against yeast, in the form of a cookbook: bread mixed and baked in an hour and a half.

HomeSalads and Salad Dressings › Fish Salad

Fish Salad

2 cups shredded lettuce 1 can tuna fish or 1 1/2 lbs, any cold boiled fish 1/2 cup French dressing 1 teaspoon onion juice 1/2 cup Mayonnaise 1 cup finely cut celery 1 teaspoon chopped parsley Line dish with lettuce; place fish in center; pour over French dressing to which onion juice has been added and cover top of fish with celery; put Mayonnaise on top. Sprinkle with chopped parsley.

For the Modern Kitchen

A composed salad rather than a tossed one, and it only works if it is built at the last minute. Everything can be prepped ahead; the dressing goes on at the table's edge.

A Little History

Fish salads of this kind were a standing feature of American lunch and supper tables from the 1890s onward, and canned tuna is what makes this particular version look modern for its date: commercial packing of albacore on the California coast began in the first decade of the twentieth century, and by the 1920s the can had become an ordinary pantry item rather than a novelty. The recipe's structure — a lined dish, a centred mound, two dressings, a green sprinkle — belongs to the older tradition of the composed salad, where appearance on the plate mattered as much as flavour and the cook was expected to build in layers rather than toss. Its appearance here is unsurprising: the Royal Baking Powder Company's cookbooks were promotional volumes that surrounded their leavened cakes and biscuits with a full complement of everyday household cookery, so that the book earned a permanent place on the shelf.

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