Ninety-Nine Salads and How to Make Them

Ninety-nine salads and how to make them — the 1890s salad course, dressing by numbered dressing.

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Daisy Salad

Eight eggs, mayonnaise or cooked dressing, lettuce.

Place on the bottom of a salad dish a layer of mayonnaise or cooked dressing, on the top arrange small crisp leaves of lettuce. Cook the eggs in water (180 degree) twenty minutes, plunge in cold water. Cut the whites of the eggs into six long petals, arrange them on the lettuce to simulate the petals of a daisy and heap the yolks which have been pressed through a strainer in the center.

For the Modern Kitchen

A composed garnish salad rather than a tossed one, and the only real technique in it is the egg cookery. The 180°F water bath is the whole point: hot enough to set the yolk, cool enough to keep it yellow and tender.

A Little History

Salads of this kind are generally traced to the first decades of the twentieth century, when American cookbooks devoted whole volumes to the subject and the measure of a good salad was as much how it looked on the plate as how it tasted. Hard-cooked eggs, cut into petals and radiating from a sieved yolk center, were a standard trick of the period. The care over the 180-degree water is worth noticing: the low-temperature method for hard-cooking eggs was widely taught in the domestic-science schools of the era, which pressed the point that boiling toughens egg protein, and the instruction survives here as a bare parenthesis a modern reader could easily skip past. The choice offered between mayonnaise and a cooked dressing is also of its time, boiled dressing being often said to have been the cheaper option in kitchens without a reliable supply of good oil.

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