On Uncle Sam's Water Wagon

Five hundred delicious drinks and no bar bill — Prohibition-eve refreshment from 1919, tea to temperance punch.

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The Blackstone

Shake briskly one egg with two tablespoonfuls of cold water, and pour into a glass one half full of cracked ice, and add slowly while stirring Vichy to fill glass.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

A soda-fountain egg drink from the early Prohibition years. The technique is straightforward; the problem is that the egg is served raw and never heated at any stage.

A Little History

Books of this kind appeared in quantity as national Prohibition came into force in 1920, offering bartenders and soda men a repertoire that would keep customers on the wagon. Egg drinks were a fountain staple long before that, sold less as refreshment than as nourishment: an egg beaten into seltzer, milk or a phosphate was a standard restorative for invalids, the elderly and men recovering from a hard night, and druggists dispensed them across the counter alongside medicines. Named drinks like this one generally borrowed the name of a hotel or bar where the recipe was said to have been poured, though such attributions in fountain manuals are traditional rather than documented. The formula shows how little a temperance drink had to do to feel like a real one: cold glass, cracked ice, something fizzy poured slowly, and the ceremony of the shake.

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