Reliable Recipes and Helpful Hints

“Not made by the Trust.” Calumet's 1918 recipe book, with its medals, its court testimony, and a good deal to prove.

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Orange Filling

Juice of 1 orange, juice of 1/2 lemon; fill cup with water, put in small pan, add 1/3 cup of sugar, bring to a boil and stir in 1/3 cup of sugar and 2 tablespoons of flour stirred together; take from fire and add 1 egg well beaten and 1 teaspoon of butter; set back on fire until egg is set. 2 cups confectioner's sugar 1/2 cup butter Cream until light.

For the Modern Kitchen

A cooked citrus filling for a layer cake, with what is plainly a separate butter icing tacked on at the end. The two are meant to be used together on one cake: filling between the layers, creamed butter and sugar on top.

A Little History

Orange filling belongs to the era of the layer cake, which spread in American kitchens as chemical leavening and more controllable ranges made it easier to bake thin, even rounds instead of one tall loaf. Community and commercial cookbooks of the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries carry many cooked fillings on the same pattern: fruit juice or milk, sugar, a spoonful or two of flour or cornstarch, an egg, a knob of butter, cooked into a curd-like paste. The flour-thickened version was the thriftier one, using a single egg where a true orange curd would want several yolks. The unlabeled block of creamed butter and confectioners' sugar at the end is unexplained; in books assembled from contributed recipes, an omission of this kind is common enough, though nothing here tells us why this particular cook left it unmarked.

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