Egg Croquettes
Hard boil two eggs, remove the shells, dry them, and cut the eggs in minute pieces. Put one tablespoon of butter into a saucepan, and when it is melted add one and one-half tablespoons of flour; stir constantly for a few moments over a slow fire with a wooden spoon, taking care that the flour does not color. Then pour in one-third of a cup of milk, in which you have put salt and pepper. Cool this sauce for eight or ten minutes, stirring continually to make it smooth, then remove from the fire, put in the chopped-up egg, some parsley chopped fine, and one-half tablespoon of grated Parmesan cheese. When you have mixed these ingredients well together, spread them out on a plate or marble and allow to cool. When this has become cold and hardened, with a wooden spoon divide it into little portions about the size of a nut. Take these and roll them in dried bread crumbs and a little flour. Roll them all then, one at a time, with a rotary motion, and then elongate the balls until they are the shape of ordinary corks, then dip the croquettes into the egg, one at a time, then into bread crumbs again, and a few moments before serving fry in boiling lard. As soon as they are colored remove them immediately from the lard, otherwise they will break to pieces. Polenta Fritters, Fried Pumpkin, Fried Squash, and Parsnips may also be added or substituted if desired. Little Filets "alla Napolitana" Butter well a frying-pan, and sprinkle over the bottom a piece of lean ham (raw if possible) chopped up fine. Then a layer of mushrooms chopped fine, Then a layer of mushrooms chopped fine, then a layer of minced parsley. The bottom of the pan should be entirely covered with these three ingredients. Then from a filet of beef cut some little slices, about one-half an inch thick and round in shape. Put these in the frying-pan, one piece near the other, so the bottom shall be covered. Sprinkle on salt and pepper, and put it on the fire. When the filets are cooked on one side, turn them over on the other, but with care, so the ingredients at the bottom of the pan will stick to the meat. When the filets are cooked on both sides, squeeze on the juice of half a lemon, and add a little meat stock. Put the filets on a platter, and pour over them their sauce, and serve with croutons (fried bread). Involtini of Beef "alla Siciliana" Take three-quarters of a pound of beef, two ounces of ham, one tablespoon of butter (or one-half tablespoon of lard), some bread, some parsley, and a piece of onion. Chop up the onion fine and put it in a saucepan with the butter (or lard). When it is colored, put in the parsley and the ham cut up into little pieces, at the same time add the bread cut up into three or four small dice, salt, pepper, and a dash of nutmeg. Mix all together well. Cut the meat into six slices, pound them to flatten out; salt slightly, and when the other ingredients are cooked, put a portion on each slice of meat. Then roll up the meat like sausages, put them on skewers, alternating with a piece of fried bread of the same size. Butter well, roll in fresh bread crumbs, and broil on the gridiron over a slow fire. These are nice served with salad. Polpettone "alla Napolitana" Take three-quarters of a pound of lean beef without skin or bones from the rump-steak, flatten it out with a knife in a manner to widen it without tearing the meat. Salt and pepper it. Then take one and one-half ounces of ham, fat and lean, and chop it up fine with a little piece of onion, some parsley, and some thyme, then add twice its volume of fresh bread crumbs (which have been dipped in water and squeezed out). When the bread has been well mixed add the yolk of one egg and mix again well, spread this mixture all over the surface of the beef, leveling it off with a knife. Then sprinkle on a few raisins, and then roll up the meat like a cigar, but bigger in the middle than at the ends. Tie it up then, crosswise and lengthwise, and brown it in a saucepan with a little lard and some ham. As soon as it colors add some chopped-up pieces of onion, celery, carrot, and one clove. When these vegetables are cooked add several pieces of tomato, and let the meat simmer for about two hours, basting it now and then. When the meat is cooked remove the string, place the polpettone on a platter, strain the sauce through a sieve, pour it over the meat, and serve.
A thick egg-bound béchamel, chilled, shaped and fried — the technique is sound, but the printed text has one misleading instruction and the page runs several unrelated meat recipes together after it.
- "Cool this sauce for eight or ten minutes"The printed word appears to be a slip for cook: the text goes on to say "then remove from the fire", so the pan was still over the heat. The sauce is stirred until it is thick enough to pull away from the pan; only after that does it come off. Cooling a raw roux for ten minutes accomplishes nothing.
- Make the panada stiffOne tablespoon butter, one and a half of flour and only a third of a cup of milk gives a paste far thicker than a pouring sauce, and that is the point. If it is loose enough to spread easily it will not hold a cork shape in the fat.
- Chill properly"Spread on a plate or marble" means a thin layer for fast cooling. An hour in the refrigerator, uncovered, is more reliable than a cold larder, and a firmer mix breaks less in the fryer.
- Breading orderThe text has you roll in crumbs and flour, shape, then egg, then crumbs again. In practice flour first, then beaten egg, then crumbs, and shape before any coating goes on.
- Frying fat"Boiling lard" means fat at frying heat, roughly 350–375F, not literally boiling. Lard is what the book assumes; any neutral oil at the same temperature does the same work. Fry a few at a time so the temperature does not fall.
- Why they must come out at onceThere is no raw ingredient inside — everything is cooked. The croquettes are in the fat only to colour the crust; left longer, the interior loosens to a liquid and splits the shell.
- YieldTwo eggs and this quantity of sauce give about eight to ten nut-sized croquettes, enough for two as a first course or an antipasto with the fried vegetables the recipe suggests alongside.
- The recipes that followLittle Filets alla Napolitana, Involtini alla Siciliana and Polpettone alla Napolitana are separate dishes that follow the croquettes on the same page, their titles run into the body text in this transcription. Read them as three independent recipes; the polpettone in particular needs its full two hours of gentle simmering.
Simple Italian Cookery appeared in the early twentieth century under the pen name Antonia Isola, part of a small wave of books that tried to present Italian home cooking to American households in plain English measures. Croquettes themselves are French by name — croquer, to crunch — and reached Italian kitchens as crocchette, where they were absorbed into the wider family of fried, breaded, panada-bound morsels that includes Sicilian arancini and Neapolitan crocchè di patate. Egg croquettes belong to the frugal end of that tradition: two eggs, a spoonful of butter, a scrape of Parmesan and some parsley stretched into a dish that eats like something richer. The recipe's neighbours here — filets, involtini, polpettone — show how thin the line was in these books between a meat course and its garnish.