A Game Winner

A fountain egg lemonade of the type served across the counter in the early 1900s. The egg goes into the glass raw and stays raw, which is the reason this one should be read rather than mixed.

• The raw egg is the problemNothing in this drink is ever heated. A whole shell egg shaken with lemon juice and ice carries a real risk of Salmonella, which acid and cold do not eliminate. Whatever the egg-handling behind the counter was, it is not a standard worth reproducing.
• Who it was served toEgg drinks at the fountain were marketed as restoratives for the tired, the convalescent and the elderly, precisely the groups for whom an undercooked egg is most dangerous. If you want a drink of this shape, use a current recipe built on pasteurised eggs or aquafaba.
• Shaking does not cookVigorous shaking with shaved ice emulsifies the egg and gives the foam, but it changes nothing microbiologically. The frothy head is not evidence that anything has been rendered safe.
• An ounce of grape juicePure unfermented grape juice, sold bottled. At one ounce in a twelve-ounce glass it presumably contributes colour and flavour more than sweetness, which comes from the two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar.
• Fine and coarse streamFountain terminology. The carbonated water tap had two settings: a fine, aerated spray to build foam and a coarse gush to fill the glass. On modern equipment you would approximate this by soda from a siphon, first slowly onto the foam, then straight down.
• The glassA 12-ounce lemonade glass is a tall tumbler; the recipe makes one serving, finished with orange and cherry.