The American Soda Book of Receipts and Suggestions

About a thousand formulas for the soda fountain — syrups, phosphates, egg drinks, ice-cream sodas and “fancy drinks” — with hints on installing and running a fountain, from the company that sold them.

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Arion

One-half ounce apricot syrup, ½ ounce peach syrup, ½ ounce rose syrup, 2 ounces plain cream, 1 egg, 4 glass ice. Shake, strain, toss and serve.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

A fountain egg shake of the sort a soda clerk turned out in under a minute. The measures and the equipment need translating, but the raw egg is the reason this one stays on the page rather than going in the shaker.

A Little History

Egg drinks were fountain staples rather than novelties: the whole egg gave body, foam and a nutritional claim at a time when the soda counter marketed itself partly as a health resort, and pharmacists dispensed egg phosphates and egg creams beside their tonics. The name is one of a large family of fountain drinks christened after clubs, societies and classical figures — Arion was the Greek poet said to have been carried ashore by a dolphin, and Arion singing societies were prominent in German-American cities through the later nineteenth century, so the borrowing could have come from either direction; formula books of this kind rarely explain their titles. What the recipe does show plainly is the fountain's house style: three floral and stone-fruit syrups shaken together, cream for weight, and speed as the only preservation.

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