The American Soda Book of Receipts and Suggestions

About a thousand formulas for the soda fountain — syrups, phosphates, egg drinks, ice-cream sodas and “fancy drinks” — with hints on installing and running a fountain, from the company that sold them.

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Birch Beer Syrup

American Concentrated Birch Beer Syrup, 1 quart; Plain Syrup, 3 quarts. Mix well.

For the Modern Kitchen

This is a fountain dispensing formula rather than a cooking recipe: a commercial flavor concentrate cut with sugar syrup at 1:3. The whole of it depends on knowing what the two ingredients were.

A Little History

Birch beer belongs to the same family of American root and bark sodas as root beer and sarsaparilla, all of which began as home-brewed small beers before the soda fountain turned them into syrups. The flavor comes from sweet or black birch, Betula lenta, whose inner bark and twigs are rich in methyl salicylate and give the sharp, cooling, wintergreen-like note that distinguishes birch beer from root beer's heavier sassafras profile. It is most closely associated with Pennsylvania and the mid-Atlantic, where regional bottlers still produce red, white and brown versions, and where tapping birches in early spring for sap and bark is often said to have been a common rural practice. The formula itself suggests that by the time books like this one were written, the fountain man no longer touched a tree: he would have bought a jug of concentrated extract from a supply house and done nothing but dilute it, which is all these two lines ask of him.

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