The American Soda Book of Receipts and Suggestions

About a thousand formulas for the soda fountain — syrups, phosphates, egg drinks, ice-cream sodas and “fancy drinks” — with hints on installing and running a fountain, from the company that sold them.

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Creme de Cocoa

One-third glass of shaved ice, 1½ ounces chocolate syrup, 2 ounces sweet , 34 tumbler pure milk cream, ¾ tumbler pure milk. Shake and strain into another tumbler into . Shake and strain into another tumbler into which has been placed 1 tablespoonful whipped cream. Grate chocolate on top and serve.

For the Modern Kitchen

A shaken fountain drink rather than a liqueur: chocolate syrup, cream and milk over shaved ice, finished with whipped cream and grated chocolate. The measurements come from the soda counter, where the tumbler itself was the unit.

A Little History

American soda fountains of the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries kept formula books like this one so that any clerk could turn out a consistent glass, and the recipes read as trade instructions rather than home cookery: quantities in ounces and fractions of a tumbler, the shaker and the strainer assumed to be at hand. A drink called crème de cocoa borrows the name of a European cordial, though it is often said, rather than documented, that fountains adopted such names to give customers something bar-like to order. The finish here, whipped cream floated in the glass and chocolate grated over it, is the fountain equivalent of a garnish, and it is what separated a ten-cent specialty from a plain glass of chocolate milk.

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