The American Soda Book of Receipts and Suggestions

About a thousand formulas for the soda fountain — syrups, phosphates, egg drinks, ice-cream sodas and “fancy drinks” — with hints on installing and running a fountain, from the company that sold them.

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Egg Phosphate (Pour some cracked ice into)

Pour some cracked ice into a shaker, break in a fresh egg, add an ounce of American Orange Syrup and a dash of phosphate. Shake well, then strain into soda glass. Draw fine stream to make the drink creamy, then pour back and forth from shaker to glass. Sprinkle top with grated nutmeg, and serve with a straw. Egg phosphate can also be served with American Claret, Lemon, Champagne Syrups, or a mixture of American Lemon and Coffee, or Chocolate and Orange, or any specially prepared syrup.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

A fountain standard from the era when every drugstore had a marble counter and a soda draft with several settings. The vocabulary needs translating, but the drink itself cannot be recommended as written.

A Little History

Egg drinks were the fountain's answer to a demand that was medical as much as social: through the second half of the nineteenth century the soda counter sat inside the pharmacy, and an egg beaten into flavoured syrup and charged water was sold as nourishment for the thin, the convalescent and the person who had skipped lunch. Acid phosphate, promoted from the 1870s onward as a tonic preparation, carried the same double identity, supplying the tartness that keeps a sweet syrup from cloying while lending the whole thing a druggist's respectability. The long list of interchangeable syrups at the end of this entry is the real tell about how such books worked: the dispenser learned one procedure and then rang the changes on it, so that claret, coffee-and-lemon and chocolate-and-orange versions all came off the same shaker. Prohibition later pushed still more custom toward these counters, and the egg phosphate survived into the mid-twentieth century alongside the egg cream -- a drink whose name is traditionally explained as a relic of a version once made with egg, though whether it ever contained one is disputed.

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