The American Soda Book of Receipts and Suggestions

About a thousand formulas for the soda fountain — syrups, phosphates, egg drinks, ice-cream sodas and “fancy drinks” — with hints on installing and running a fountain, from the company that sold them.

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Goldenade

Shaved Ice, ½ tumblerful; Powdered Sugar, 4 teaspoonfuls; Lemon, juice of, 1; Egg, yolk of, 1. Shake well, add soda water from large stream, turn from tumbler to shaker, and vice versa several times, and strain through julep strainer into a 12-ounce tumbler. American Sliced "Golden Ginger."

This "Golden Ginger" is thin slices of ginger fruit packed solid in the jars, with just sufficient of the true fruit ginger syrup to pour from the jar. In using, it should be reduced with two parts plain syrup in a bowl on the counter, and should be served in the form of a sundae over ice cream. Nothing is more delicious to the high-toned epicurean taste than the true pungent flavor of the ginger fruit, and when combined with the creamy richness of good ice cream, it makes an "eat" fit for the gods. It can also be used in ice cream soda and as a top dressing to other drinks. Keep one eye on your customers, syrups, attendants, location, the weather, etc. Keep the other eye on your fountain. "Golf Goblet."

Serve in a 12-ounce glass; fill ⅔ full of cracked ice, add ½ ounce pineapple juice, 1 teaspoonful lemon juice, 1 teaspoonful raspberry vinegar. Put teaspoonful lemon juice, 1 teaspoonful raspberry vinegar. Put spoon in glass, and fill to within 1½ inch of top with carbonated water, add shaved ice heaping full. Put strawberry or cherry on top and stick slice of orange down side of glass. Serve with spoon and straws.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

A soda-fountain egg lemonade, gold-colored from the raw yolk shaken through it. The page also carries stray text from neighboring entries — a note on "Golden Ginger" preserved ginger and a separate "Golf Goblet" formula — which are not part of this drink.

A Little History

Egg drinks were a staple of the American soda fountain from the late nineteenth century into the 1920s, sold as much for supposed nourishment as for flavor: egg phosphates, egg chocolates and egg lemonades all promised a restorative to clerks and shoppers who took lunch standing at a marble counter. "Goldenade" appears to be simply a lemonade colored and enriched by the yolk, and it sits alongside a family of fountain names — Orangeade, Limeade, Cherryade — that gave a familiar formula a proprietary ring. The surrounding page is typical of these trade manuals, which interleaved formulas with supply notes and counter advice; the line about keeping one eye on the customers and the other on the fountain is a reminder that the books were written for working dispensers, not home cooks.

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