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Goodner's Egg Phosphate
Mixing glass half full cracked ice, 1 ounce lemon syrup, 1 ounce orange syrup, several shakes acid phosphate solution (50 per cent.), 2 shakes port wine, ½ ounce plain sweet cream, 1 egg, shake thoroughly, add soda from ounce plain sweet cream, 1 egg, shake thoroughly, add soda from both streams, pour 3 times and top with nutmeg, then stir nutmeg in with spoon-no straws.
This is a soda-fountain drink built on a whole raw egg that is never heated at any point, and on a fountain chemical no longer sold for general use. The notes below explain the specific problems rather than offering a working version.
- Raw egg, unpasteurized and unheatedThe egg is broken into cold syrup, cream and ice, shaken, and served immediately. Nothing in the sequence reaches a temperature that would inactivate Salmonella, and the drink is not acidic enough or held long enough for the acid phosphate to do anything useful in that regard.
- Cream held on the counterCream held at room temperature -- The cream is never heated either. Combined with raw egg in a drink that is served straight from the mixing glass, this is more than an ordinary kitchen risk.
- Acid phosphate solutionA solution of phosphoric acid with calcium, magnesium and potassium salts, once a fountain staple. The 50 per cent strength called for here is not a food-grade retail product, and "several shakes" of an acid at that strength is not a measurable quantity. Food-grade acid phosphate sold to bartenders today is a different preparation and should not be assumed interchangeable with what is meant here.
- "Both streams" and "pour 3 times"A period fountain draft arm offered a coarse stream and a fine stream, and the instruction calls for both. Pouring three times appears to mean decanting the drink between glasses to build foam. Neither has a close home equivalent.
- If you want an egg phosphateUse a current recipe from a source that specifies pasteurized egg and a food-grade acid, and follow its quantities. Do not scale this text up or down.
Egg drinks were a staple of the American soda fountain, sold less as a treat than as a restorative: the egg phosphate, the egg lemonade and the egg chocolate appear in fountain manuals under headings like "nourishing" or "invalid" drinks, and acid phosphate was marketed from the 1870s onward as a tonic for dyspepsia and nervous exhaustion before it settled into being simply a tart flavoring. The two shakes of port are a reminder that a dispenser could reach for wine as a flavoring the way he reached for the lemon syrup. Formulas of this sort were often named for a dispenser or druggist, which may be how a Goodner ends up attached to a glass of egg, cream and phosphate, though nothing here identifies him; the instruction to stir the nutmeg in and serve without straws is counter craft.