The American Soda Book of Receipts and Suggestions

About a thousand formulas for the soda fountain — syrups, phosphates, egg drinks, ice-cream sodas and “fancy drinks” — with hints on installing and running a fountain, from the company that sold them.

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Hot Coffee Ice Cream

Into a hot cup of coffee, add a spoonful of ice cream. This is one of St. Louis' popular drinks.

For the Modern Kitchen

A two-ingredient fountain drink whose success rests entirely on proportion and temperature. Treat it as an affogato with the ratio inverted.

A Little History

Soda fountain manuals of the early twentieth century collected regional house drinks the way bartenders' guides collected cocktails, and the note that this one belongs to St. Louis is the whole point of the entry: fountains competed on local specialties, and the manuals were how such a specialty travelled beyond the city that made it. The combination itself is old and widespread — hot coffee poured over or under ice cream appears in American fountain and lunch-counter practice, and is often said to have been familiar there before the Italian affogato was widely known to English-speaking drinkers; both rest on the same trick of pairing a bitter hot liquid with a cold sweet fat. Drinks like this mattered commercially because fountains needed to sell something in winter, when soda water and sundaes fell off; hot coffee, hot chocolate and hot malted milks filled the cold months, and folding ice cream into them let an operator keep using the same freezer cabinet year round.

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