The American Soda Book of Receipts and Suggestions

About a thousand formulas for the soda fountain — syrups, phosphates, egg drinks, ice-cream sodas and “fancy drinks” — with hints on installing and running a fountain, from the company that sold them.

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Hot Cream Boviline

One ounce extract of beef and 2 ounces cream. Add hot water, and serve pepper and salt.

For the Modern Kitchen

A fountain drink rather than a soup: hot beef broth softened with cream, mixed to order in a mug at the counter. The whole thing takes under a minute once you know what "extract of beef" meant behind the bar.

A Little History

Hot beef drinks were a standard part of the American soda fountain's cold-weather trade, sold alongside hot chocolate, hot lemonade and clam bouillon to keep the marble counter earning in months when nobody wanted ice cream. They depended on the commercial meat extracts that spread through the second half of the nineteenth century — Liebig's Extract of Meat, marketed from the 1860s, and the British Bovril that followed — products sold as much as invalid tonics and restoratives as flavourings, which is why a druggist's fountain stocked them without embarrassment. Names like "Boviline" belong to that world of proprietary-sounding fountain coinages, where a drink was given a trade-flavoured label whether or not any trademark stood behind it. The cream is the fountain's own contribution: the dispenser had it at hand for every other drink on the list, and adding it turned a cup of plain beef tea into something that could be charged for as a specialty.

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