The American Soda Book of Receipts and Suggestions

About a thousand formulas for the soda fountain — syrups, phosphates, egg drinks, ice-cream sodas and “fancy drinks” — with hints on installing and running a fountain, from the company that sold them.

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Hot Egg Milk

Two teaspoonfuls sugar, 1 ounce cream, i egg, hot milk to fill an 8-ounce mug. Prepare like hot egg checkerberry, top with whipped cream and sprinkle with nutmeg. If there is no facility for keeping hot milk, use about 2 ounces of cream, and fill the mug with hot water.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

A soda-fountain winter drink from the era when the pharmacy counter sold hot beverages alongside cold. The mechanics are simple; the food safety is not, and the egg is the reason.

A Little History

Hot drinks were the American soda fountain's answer to the dead months. A counter that lived on carbonated water and ice cream from May to September needed winter trade, and fountain manuals of the late nineteenth and early twentieth centuries carry sections of hot chocolate, beef tea, malted milk, hot lemonade and egg drinks, served in mugs rather than glasses. Egg drinks in particular sat on the border between refreshment and medicine, which suited the drugstore fountain: a raw egg beaten into hot milk was a familiar domestic restorative for the run-down and the convalescent, and the fountain dressed it up with whipped cream and grated nutmeg. Checkerberry, the flavour this recipe defers to, was a characteristically American fountain note -- wintergreen from the northeastern woods, and commonly supplied as a manufactured syrup.

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