The American Soda Book of Receipts and Suggestions

About a thousand formulas for the soda fountain — syrups, phosphates, egg drinks, ice-cream sodas and “fancy drinks” — with hints on installing and running a fountain, from the company that sold them.

HomeAt the Fountain › Mid-Day Lunch

Mid-Day Lunch

One ounce chocolate syrup, 1 ounce vanilla syrup, 2 ounces cream, 2 spoonfuls of malted milk, 1 egg. Shake and serve with a dainty wafer.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is a fountain egg malted — a drink sold as a meal in itself. The raw egg is the problem, and it is not incidental to the recipe: it is the body of the drink.

A Little History

The soda fountain of the early twentieth century was a lunch counter as much as a candy shop, and drinks like this one were sold frankly as food: an egg, cream and malted milk together carried enough protein and fat to stand in for a midday meal, which is exactly what the title claims. Malted milk powder was commercialised in the 1880s as an invalid and infant food, and druggists moved it onto the counter as a tonic, then as a flavour. Egg drinks belonged to the same logic as the older egg nog and egg phosphate: the raw egg was understood as strengthening, and "one egg in it" was a selling point rather than something to apologise for. The dainty wafer on the saucer suggests a drink priced and presented as a small restaurant order.

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