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Orange Loving Cup
Take ½ dozen nice sound oranges, cut off top and carefully dig out meat, cut in small pieces and mix with equal parts crushed pineapple and cherries mix with equal parts crushed pineapple and cherries (whole), add 1 ounce port wine. Mix well, fill orange cup with mixture, and top off with scoop ice cream and cherry. Cover your ice with thick newspaper, and it will last much longer.
A fountain-counter dessert served in a hollowed orange shell. The text has an obvious typesetting slip and one line that belongs to the ice chest rather than the dish.
- The doubled line"mix with equal parts crushed pineapple and cherries" is set twice; it is a compositor's repeat, not two stages. Combine the orange flesh with pineapple and cherries in roughly equal volume, once.
- YieldHalf a dozen oranges makes six cups, so this is a batch for a counter rather than a single serving. One ounce of port spread across six shells is a flavour accent of about a teaspoon each.
- Hollowing the shellsCut the top off and work a grapefruit spoon or paring knife around the membrane, leaving the white pith intact as a wall. Thin-skinned juice oranges are more likely to slump; thick-skinned eating oranges hold their shape better.
- Crushed pineapple and cherriesAt a fountain counter these would most likely have been tinned sweetened fruit in syrup: crushed pineapple packed in syrup, and cherries kept whole, maraschino-style. Drain them or the filling floods the shell.
- PortThe ounce measure here works as a flavouring rather than a drink, much as you would use an extract. Any tawny or ruby port works; the quantity is too small to matter to texture.
- Assembly orderFill the shells and chill them before the ice cream goes on, and top them to order, since a scoop set on unchilled fruit softens quickly.
- The newspaper lineThis is advice about the shop's ice, not the dessert — a layer of thick newsprint over block ice slows melting by insulating it. Irrelevant to a freezer, and worth ignoring rather than puzzling over.
"Loving cup" borrowed the name of the two-handled ceremonial vessel passed around a banquet table, and the term seems to have been carried over by American soda fountains to drinks and desserts served in a shared or showy container — a hollowed fruit, a tall footed glass, a bowl for two straws. Fountains competed on presentation as much as flavour. The splash of port is a reminder that fountain formularies were often written for pharmacists, who kept wines and cordials on the shelf as flavouring agents and medicinal vehicles; recipes calling for an ounce of port or sherry become scarce in such books after national Prohibition took effect in January 1920.