The American Soda Book of Receipts and Suggestions

About a thousand formulas for the soda fountain — syrups, phosphates, egg drinks, ice-cream sodas and “fancy drinks” — with hints on installing and running a fountain, from the company that sold them.

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Pineapple Floss Syrup

American Pineapple Floss, 1 quart; Plain Syrup, 3 quarts; American Fruit Acid, 1 ounce.

For the Modern Kitchen

This is a fountain formula rather than a kitchen recipe: four gallons of finished pineapple syrup, built from two proprietary preparations a 1900s soda dispenser bought by the case. Scaling it down and substituting for the trade products is most of the work.

A Little History

Soda fountain manuals like this one were written for the dispenser behind the counter, not the housewife, and they read like it: a list of trade goods and proportions, with the technique left to the trade. By the 1900s American fountain supply houses sold fruit preparations, "foundations," "fruit acids" and colourings under proprietary labels, and a book's formulas could double as advertising for a particular manufacturer's line — the repeated word "American" here looks more like a house brand than a description, though that is inference. Pineapple was a well-established fountain flavour, and the growth of the Hawaiian canning industry from the turn of the century made canned pineapple cheaper and more consistent. The result is a page that records less about cooking than about a supply chain: the dispenser's skill lay in dosing, carbonation and drawing a clean glass, while the flavour itself arrived in a tin.

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