The American Soda Book of Receipts and Suggestions

About a thousand formulas for the soda fountain — syrups, phosphates, egg drinks, ice-cream sodas and “fancy drinks” — with hints on installing and running a fountain, from the company that sold them.

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Sunset

Juice of 1 lemon, 1 teaspoonful powdered sugar, ½ ounce lemon syrup. Mix all in shaker, add 8-ounce glass almost full shaved ice and plain water, shake, strain into glass, pour carefully down side of glass enough blackberry wine to fill top half-inch of glass, top with slice of orange, serve with straw, do not stir.

For the Modern Kitchen

A fountain drink built for looks: a lemonade shaken cold, then capped with a dark float that gives the glass its sunset gradient. The whole point is the layer, so nearly every instruction serves that.

A Little History

Soda fountain manuals ran on a small set of interchangeable parts — fruit syrups, shaved ice, plain and carbonated water, a shaker — and the dispenser's art lay in arrangement rather than invention. Drinks like this one were named for what they looked like in the glass: the red-purple wine bleeding down into pale yellow lemonade, with an orange slice for the sun. Fruit wines and cordials appear routinely in these books, and their use here is decorative as much as anything: a float of dark wine was one of the few ways to get a sharp color break in a tall glass. The instruction not to stir is the recipe's real substance, and it marks the drink as something to be looked at before it is drunk.

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