Turkish Tea

A fountain formula rather than a kitchen recipe: three measured pours into a heavy mug, finished from the hot draft. Everything hinges on the temperature and on getting the cream in last.

• "Hot soda" is not carbonatedSoda fountains ran a separate hot-water draft, sometimes called hot soda or hot water tap, delivering plain water at just under boiling. Carbonation will not survive heat; use hot water, about 6 to 8 oz, and warm the glass or mug first as a fountain man would.
• Ounces are fluid ouncesFountain measures were volume, poured from a graduated syrup pump or a lipped measure. One ounce is 2 tablespoons; half an ounce is 1 tablespoon.
• Tea syrupA period tea syrup was strong tea infusion cut with simple syrup, roughly equal parts very strong brewed black tea and heavy sugar syrup. Commercial tea syrups vary widely in strength and sweetness; brewing your own gives you control over the tannin, which is what makes the drink read as tea rather than as sweetened water.
• Blood orange syrupIn fountain manuals this generally meant a sweetened blood orange juice syrup, prized for its deep red colour as much as its flavour. A modern blood orange syrup or cordial works; if using one built on concentrate, taste before pouring the full half ounce, as they are often sharper than the originals.
• The cream and the citrusAcid plus heat plus dairy is how you curdle cream. Add only a dash, no more than a teaspoon or two, stir it in immediately at the end, and do not let the mug stand. Heavy cream holds better than half-and-half or milk.
• Order of assemblyThe original puts the syrups and the dash of cream in the mug together and then fills up from the hot draft, stirring well. If you are worried about the acid and the heat breaking the cream, you can depart from the text and add it last with the stirring instead.
• YieldOne mug, and one serving. The drink was sold by the glass and does not scale well because the cream must be added at the moment of service.